What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentPropylene Glycol
HumectantNylon-12
Octyldodecanol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantStearic Acid
CleansingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientTriethanolamine
BufferingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingMyristic Acid
CleansingMyristyl Alcohol
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingLaureth-7
EmulsifyingT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingPolyacrylamide
Polyethylene
AbrasiveMethylparaben
PreservativePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantLinalool
PerfumingIsoeugenol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Dimethicone, Isopropyl Isostearate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Propylene Glycol, Nylon-12, Octyldodecanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Myristic Acid, Myristyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Laureth-7, T-Butyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Polyethylene, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, CI 15985, CI 19140, Linalool, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Citronellol, Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientGuanosine
Skin ConditioningCyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingHydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePhenylethyl Resorcinol
AntioxidantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAcer Saccharum Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientPolyacrylamide
Chlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPoloxamer 338
EmulsifyingLimonene
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCinnamic Acid
PerfumingPropylene Glycol
Humectant2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
Skin ConditioningLeontopodium Alpinum Extract
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingMyristic Acid
CleansingGeraniol
PerfumingDisodium EDTA
Citric Acid
BufferingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeBHT
AntioxidantLaureth-7
EmulsifyingLevulinic Acid
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Guanosine, Cyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Sodium Citrate, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Levulinate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Adenosine, Acer Saccharum Extract, Palmitic Acid, Polyacrylamide, Chlorphenesin, Poloxamer 338, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Benzyl Alcohol, Cinnamic Acid, Propylene Glycol, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Myristic Acid, Geraniol, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Potassium Sorbate, BHT, Laureth-7, Levulinic Acid, Hexyl Cinnamal, Glyceryl Caprylate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineBenzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Learn more about Benzyl AlcoholC13-14 Isoparaffin is a synthetic emollient, solvent, and thickening agent. It helps soften skin and improves spreadability without leaving a greasy residue.
This ingredient has been found to be non-sensitizing and safe for use in cosmetics.
Two things floating around online that cause fear-mongering:
There's one scary-sounding study related to kidney tumors in male rats; this depends on a protein called alpha-2u-globulin that binds the ingredient and clogs up kidney cells. Female rats barely make this protein, and humans don't make it at all so this effect cannot happen to us. Regulatory bodies have states this rat-only pathway shouldn't be used to judge human risk.
The other thing you'll see is 1,4-dioxane being a trace byproduct that can form during manufacturing of petroleum-derived ingredients. This is a real, but heavily managed/monitored issue. This byproduct is removed through purification steps before the ingredients goes into the formula. Regulatory bodies also actively monitor residual levels for safety.
One last thing to note: this ingredient is a pure hydrocarbon with no fatty-acid or ester chains for Malassezia to feed on, so it's considered fungal acne safe.
Learn more about C13-14 IsoparaffinCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis ingredient is often marketed as Pro-Xylane. It was developed by L'Oreal in 2006 and comes from xylose, a natural sugar extracted from beech wood.
In L'Oreal's published chemistry work, this ingredient was identified as a strong activator of sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG) biosynthesis.
This ingredient helped skin make more of its own natural “water-holding” molecules (called GAGs) in lab studies and skin models, which are important for keeping skin plump and hydrated. It also supported proteins that help anchor and support the skin’s layers.
Most human studies look at full skincare formulas rather than the ingredient on its own.
In one 12-week study, a facial serum containing Pro-Xylane was linked to improvements in skin hydration, firmness, and the appearance of sun-damaged skin.
In a more recent study, a product with hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol plus niacinamide was used after laser treatments and showed visible improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, and overall skin appearance within about 8 weeks, along with signs that the skin was calming and repairing itself.
Learn more about Hydroxypropyl TetrahydropyrantriolLaureth-7 is created by the ethoxylation of lauryl alcohol using ethylene oxide. Lauryl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with hydrating properties.
This ingredient is an emulsifier and cleansing ingredient. As an emulsifier, it is used to prevent ingredients from separating. It also helps cleanse the skin by gathering dirt, oil, and pollutants to be rinsed away.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneMyristic Acid, aka tetradecanoic acid, is a naturally occurring fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.
In skincare, it is an:
Research indicates that this ingredient posts a low risk of irritation and sensitization.
Since myristic acid is a C14 fatty acid, it falls within the range that Malassezia can metabolize, and therefore not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Myristic AcidOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyacrylamide is a synthetic polymer. It is used to stabilize products and bind ingredients. When hydrated, Polyacrylamide forms a soft gel.
Polyacrylamide is low-toxicity. If source properly, it is deemed safe to use in cosmetics.
It should be noted the precursor to Polyacrylamide is acrylamide. Acrylamide is a carcinogen. Most reputable sources of Polyacrylamide will screen for residual acrylamide to make sure the count is in a safe range. Acrylamide is not able to be absorbed through the skin.
We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about PolyacrylamidePropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water