Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) Versus Dear, Klairs Supple Preparation Unscented Toner
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This hydrating toner is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Centella Asiatica Extract to hydrate skin and calm redness.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingDipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientPolyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingC14-28 Alkyl Acid
Stearyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Chelating1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningRaphanus Sativus Leaf Extract
HumectantOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningCucurbitaceae Extract
Skin ConditioningOrchid Extract
Skin ConditioningHoney Extract
HumectantPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingGlyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDimethyl Sulfone
SolventBetaine
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantGlycerin
HumectantArginine
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningLuffa Cylindrica Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningLysine Hcl
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAcetyl Methionine
Skin ConditioningTheanine
EmollientProline
Skin ConditioningNatto Gum
Disodium Phosphate
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSodium Phosphate
BufferingCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Dimethyl Sulfone, Betaine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Chlorphenesin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerin, Arginine, Carbomer, Panthenol, Luffa Cylindrica Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Lysine Hcl, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Methionine, Theanine, Proline, Natto Gum, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate, Copper Tripeptide-1
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water