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Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) Ingredients Explained

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Updated December 14, 2023 Added by hyggeday

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Overview

What it is

General moisturizer with 48 ingredients that contains ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and Vitamin E

Cool Features

It is cruelty-free and reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing and dark spots

Free From

It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, common allergens, parabens or sulfates

Fun facts

Beauty of Joseon is from South Korea.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

Quick info

Free from

Safety & Ethics

Korean Brand

Brand country of origin

Ingredients, at a glance

What's in this product, and how it might affect your skin.

Notable Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients List

Dive into the full list of ingredients.

Water Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

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Glycerin Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

0 Com. / 0 Irr.
Loved by users
2 Benefits
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Butylene Glycol Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning
1 / 0

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

1 Com. / 0 Irr.
Mixed reviews
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Niacinamide Smoothing
Niacinamide IconGood for Oily Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Dark Spots IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Niacinamide has emerged as an all-star ingredient due to its many benefits.

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NiacinamideNiacinamide Icon6 Benefits
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Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters yet.

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Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant, Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

0 Com. / 0 Irr.
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Hyaluronic AcidHyaluronic Acid Icon
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Xanthan Gum Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

Disliked by users
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Cyclopentasiloxane Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Silicon Icon

Cyclopentasiloxane is a silicone used to improve texture and trap moisture. An easier name for this is D5.

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SiliconSilicon Icon
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Cyclohexasiloxane Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Silicon Icon

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.

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SiliconSilicon Icon
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Polyacrylate-13

Polyacrylate-13 is a type of acrylate polymer. Acrylate polymers are commonly used as adhesives in cosmetics.

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Polyisobutene

Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer made from isobutene.

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Polysorbate 20 Emulsifying
0 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Polysorbate 20 is made by combining ethoxylation of sorbitan, ethylene oxide, and lauric acid. It is a mild cleansing agent, surfactant, and emulsifier.

0 Com. / 0 Irr.
Very disliked
Not safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
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Hydrogenated Lecithin Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is created from the hydrogenation of lecithin. Hydrogenation is a chemical reaction between molecule hydrogen and another element.

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C14-28 Alkyl Acid

We don't have a description for C14-28 Alkyl Acid yet.

Not enough ratings
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Stearyl Alcohol Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising
2 / 2 Fatty Alcohol Icon

Stearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients.

2 Com. / 2 Irr.
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Fatty AlcoholFatty Alcohol Icon
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Behenyl Alcohol Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising
Fatty Alcohol Icon

A type of fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as traditional alcohols.

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Fatty AlcoholFatty Alcohol Icon
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Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Skin Conditioning

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone used to improve the texture of products and absorb oil. It does not get absorbed into the skin.

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Dimethicone Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
1 / 0 Silicon Icon

Dimethicone is a silicone used for making products smooth and silky. It also has the added benefit of sealing in hydration. The amount of dimethicone found in beauty products is considered safe and non-comedogenic, meaning it won't clog pores.

1 Com. / 0 Irr.
Very disliked
SiliconSilicon Icon
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Adenosine Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

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2 Benefits
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Glyceryl Stearate Se Emulsifying
3 / 2 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glyceryl Stearate Se is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of glyceryl stearate. Self-emusifying means this ingredient automatically blends with water. It is an emulsifier, emollient, and cleansing agent.

3 Com. / 2 Irr.
Very disliked
Not safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
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Cetearyl Alcohol Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising
2 / 1 Fatty Alcohol IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is mainly used as an emulsifier. Emulsifiers help prevent the separation of oils and products. Due to its composition, it can also be used to thicken a product or help create foam.

2 Com. / 1 Irr.
Very disliked
Fatty AlcoholFatty Alcohol Icon3 Concerns
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Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is created from the diester of stearic acid and the condensation product of methylglucose and Polyglycerin-3.

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Not safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
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Cetyl Peg/Ppg-10/1 Dimethicone Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning
Silicon Icon

This ingredient is a high molecular weight silicone. It has emulsifying and skin conditioning properties.

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SiliconSilicon Icon
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Stearic Acid Cleansing, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising
2-3 / 0 May worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid. It is an emollient, emulsifier, and texture enhancer.

2-3 Com. / 0 Irr.
Very disliked
2 Concerns
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Tocopheryl Acetate Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.

0 Com. / 0 Irr.
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Vitamin EVitamin E IconAntioxidantAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skinHelps brighten skin Icon
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Sodium Polyacrylate Absorbent, Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising

Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid.

Mixed reviews
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Olea Europaea Fruit Oil Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning
0-2 / 0 Fragrance IconOil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil is the fixed oil obtained from the ripe fruit of the Olive. In other words - olive oil.

0-2 Com. / 0 Irr.
Very disliked
FragranceFragrance IconOilOil IconNot safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
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Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is the oil derived from the seeds of a Sunflower. Sunflower seed oil is non-fragrant. It is an emollient, meaning it helps to soften the skin.

0 Com. / 0 Irr.
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OilOil IconHelps hydrate Dry SkinHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon2 Concerns
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Centella Asiatica Extract Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

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2 Benefits
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Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil also known as seabuckthorn oil. This oil is usually extracted from the fruit pulp or seeds.

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OilOil IconNot safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
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Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil is derived from the kernels of the argania spinosa tree. You may know it as argan oil.

Mixed reviews
OilOil IconHelps hydrate Dry SkinHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
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Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter is a plant lipid from the fruit of the Shea Tree. It is an effective skin hydrator and emollient.

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Helps hydrate Dry SkinHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon2 Concerns
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Ceramide NP Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Ceramide NP is a type of ceramide.

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CeramideCeramide Icon4 Benefits
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Trehalose Humectant, Moisturising

Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

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Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning
Fragrance IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract comes from the common Marigold plant. This ingredient is a skin conditioner.

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FragranceFragrance Icon2 Benefits
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Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Caprylhydroxamic Acid is a chelating agent.

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1,2-Hexanediol Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a multi-tasker ingredient. It acts as a preservative to increase shelf-life and can aid other preservatives in preventing microbe growth. 1,2-Hexanediol also helps the skin retain moisture as a humectant.

Mixed reviews
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Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract Humectant

We don't have a description for Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract yet.

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Oryza Sativa Bran Extract Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract comes from the outer layer of a rice kernel. It is a byproduct of milling rice, or the operation to produce a whole grain rice product.

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Cucurbitaceae Extract Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Cucurbitaceae Extract yet.

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Orchid Extract Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Orchid Extract yet.

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Honey Extract Humectant, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Honey Extract yet.

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Panax Ginseng Root Extract Emollient, Skin Protecting, Tonic
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Panax Ginseng Root is a popular herb from Asia. This root contains antioxidants, favonoids, and vitamins B12 and D.

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2 Benefits
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Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil Masking, Skin Conditioning
0-2 / 0 Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Carthamus tinctorius seed oil comes from safflower, one of humanity's oldest crops.

0-2 Com. / 0 Irr.
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OilOil IconNot safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
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Phytosphingosine Skin Conditioning

Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.

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Ceteareth-20 Cleansing, Emulsifying
2 / 3 May worsen Oily Skin Icon

Ceteareth-20 is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. It is derived from cetearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol.

2 Com. / 3 Irr.
Very disliked
May worsen Oily SkinMay worsen Oily Skin Icon
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Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate isn't fungal acne safe.

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Not safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
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Parfum Masking, Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

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FragranceFragrance Icon2 Concerns
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What the community thinks

Based on the number of likes and dislikes each ingredient has received.

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Ingredients Explained

This product contains 48 ingredients. Click on any ingredient to learn more about it
Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Loved

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
Loved

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.

As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.

Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.

In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.

This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning
Mixed

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

  • It is a solvent, meaning that it helps to dissolve other ingredients. This also enhances the absorption of the product into one's skin.
  • It is a humectant, which means that it helps attract moisture into the skin.
  • It helps improve product application.

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient. It is unlikely to irritate skin, and works well with pretty much all other ingredients.

Smoothing
Loved

Niacinamide has emerged as an all-star ingredient due to its many benefits.

It is known to treat acne by reducing inflammation. It also helps fade dark-spots and strengthen the skin by promoting the growth of the ceramide barrier.

Other benefits include smoothing wrinkles and minimizing redness.

The cherry on top? Niacinamide can also help build keratin, a protein that keeps skin firm.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

Niacinamide can be mixed with other ingredients to boost benefits. For instance, it has shown to be effective when used with copper, folic acid, and zinc to treat acne.

Learn more about Niacinamide

We don't have a description for Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning
Loved

Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Like hyaluronic acid, it is great at holding water and acts as a humectant. This makes it a great skin hydrating ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate is naturally occurring in our bodies and is mostly found in eye fluid and joints.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate
Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
Disliked

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Disliked

Cyclopentasiloxane is a silicone used to improve texture and trap moisture. An easier name for this is D5.

D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.

D5 is an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.

Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.

Learn more about Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Disliked

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.

Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.

As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.

Learn more about Cyclohexasiloxane
Very Disliked

Polyacrylate-13 is a type of acrylate polymer. Acrylate polymers are commonly used as adhesives in cosmetics.

Polyacrylate-13 creates a film to protect the skin. It is also used to thicken and stabilize a product. It works by making water a gel-like consistency. This gel consistency helps suspend particles.

Polyacrylate-13 is a copolymer of acrylic acid, acrylamide, sodium acrylate, sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate monomers

Learn more about Polyacrylate-13
Disliked

Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer made from isobutene.

It is a film-forming agent and helps bind ingredients together.

Polyisobutene is not absorbed by the skin.

Learn more about Polyisobutene
Emulsifying
Very Disliked

Polysorbate 20 is made by combining ethoxylation of sorbitan, ethylene oxide, and lauric acid. It is a mild cleansing agent, surfactant, and emulsifier.

As a surfactant, it helps collect dirt and oils for washing. Emulsifiers prevent oils and water from separating.

Polysorbate 20 also adds scent to a product. Since it is made using sorbitol, it has a sweet scent. Sorbitol can also be found in fruits such as apples and peaches.

The lauric acid used to create Polysorbate 20 is often derived from coconuts.

Polysorbate 20 may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning
Liked

Hydrogenated Lecithin is created from the hydrogenation of lecithin. Hydrogenation is a chemical reaction between molecule hydrogen and another element.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps soften skin by trapping moisture within.

The phospholipids in Hydrogenated Lecithin can produce liposomes. Liposomes help other ingredients get through the skin barrier to be better absorbed.

As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Lecithin

We don't have a description for C14-28 Alkyl Acid yet.

Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising
Very Disliked

Stearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients.

Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.

They are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent alcohols. FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

Learn more about Stearyl Alcohol
Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising
Disliked

A type of fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as traditional alcohols.

Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.

Behenyl Alcohol is usually derived from the fats in vegetable oils.

In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.

Learn more about Behenyl Alcohol
Skin Conditioning
Very Disliked

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone used to improve the texture of products and absorb oil. It does not get absorbed into the skin.

Like other silicones, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer helps condition the skin by creating a barrier. In this sense, it can act as an emollient and trap moisture in.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
Very Disliked

Dimethicone is a silicone used for making products smooth and silky. It also has the added benefit of sealing in hydration. The amount of dimethicone found in beauty products is considered safe and non-comedogenic, meaning it won't clog pores.

Dimethicone has been found increase absorption in skin, boosting the benefits of other ingredients. While there is concern for the safety of dimethicone, the levels used in skincare are safe for use.

Skin Conditioning
Loved

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.

Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.

In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.

Learn more about Adenosine
Emulsifying
Very Disliked

Glyceryl Stearate Se is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of glyceryl stearate. Self-emusifying means this ingredient automatically blends with water. It is an emulsifier, emollient, and cleansing agent.

As an emulsifier, Glyceryl Stearate Se prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It is also a surfactant, meaning it helps cleanse the skin. Surfactants help gather oil, dirt, and other pollutants so they may be rinsed away easily.

Emollients help your skin stay smooth and soft. It does so by creating a film on top of the skin that helps trap moisture in.

Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate Se
Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising
Very Disliked

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is mainly used as an emulsifier. Emulsifiers help prevent the separation of oils and products. Due to its composition, it can also be used to thicken a product or help create foam.

Cetearyl alcohol is an emollient. Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.

Studies show Cetearyl alcohol is non-toxic and non-irritating. The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient is usually derived from plant oils such as palm, vegetable, or coconut oils. There is debate on whether this ingredient will cause acne.

Due to the fatty acid base, this ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis safe.

Learn more about Cetearyl Alcohol
Emulsifying
Very Disliked

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is created from the diester of stearic acid and the condensation product of methylglucose and Polyglycerin-3.

As an emulsifier, it is used to bind ingredients together. Many ingredients, such as oils and water, separate naturally. Emulsifiers prevent them from separating to ensure even consistency in texture.

One of the manufacturer for this ingredient states it is vegetable-based. It is also claimed to be stable at both high and low temperatures.

This ingredient may not be safe for fungal acne. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning
Very Disliked

This ingredient is a high molecular weight silicone. It has emulsifying and skin conditioning properties.

Cleansing, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising
Very Disliked

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid. It is an emollient, emulsifier, and texture enhancer.

As an emollient, stearic acid helps soften skin. It aids the skin's protective barrier by preventing water loss. It also provides a gentle cleansing effect without stripping away natural oils.

Stearic acid may also be used to enhance the texture of products. It can add volume and stabilize ingredients such as water and oil. This can help water and oil ingredients from separating.

Sources of stearic acid include animal or vegetable fats/oils such as coconut or shea. It can be naturally found in butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, vegetable fats, and animal tallow.

This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Stearic Acid
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning
Liked

Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.

One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.

Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.

Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
Absorbent, Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising
Mixed

Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid.

Sodium Polyacrylate is a super-absorbent polymer. It can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Sodium Polyacrylate is also used to stabilize products.

Learn more about Sodium Polyacrylate
Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning
Very Disliked

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil is the fixed oil obtained from the ripe fruit of the Olive. In other words - olive oil.

The primary contents of olive oil are glycerides of the fatty acids linoleic, oleic and palmitic.

Olive oil also contains antioxidants such as Vitamin E. Antioxidants may help reduce signs of aging by fighting unstable free-radical molecules. It also contains Vitamins A (retinol), D, and K.

The squalene in olive oil makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin by trapping moisture in. This makes olive oil a great skin moisturizer.

Studies show olive oil to have antibacterial and antifungal properties in low concentrations. Another study found olive oil irritated sensitive oily skin. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.

Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning
Disliked

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is the oil derived from the seeds of a Sunflower. Sunflower seed oil is non-fragrant. It is an emollient, meaning it helps to soften the skin.

Sunflower seed oil contains many fatty acids. The fatty acids found in sunflower seeds include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.

These fatty acids help the skin create ceramides. Ceramides play a role in repairing the skin barrier.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil helps moisturize the skin. This in turn helps the skin look more rejuvenated and smoother.

Sunflowers are rich in vitamin E.

Historians believe Indigenous cultures of North America domesticated sunflowers before corn. Thus they relied on sunflower oil for a variety of uses. One such use is moisturizing skin and hair.

Sunflower seed oil may not be fungal acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing
Loved

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.

Studies show the compounds in centella help with:

The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.

Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Learn more about Centella Asiatica Extract
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
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Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil also known as seabuckthorn oil. This oil is usually extracted from the fruit pulp or seeds.

Seabuckthorn is rich in phytosterols, carotenoids, Vitamins A, C, and E. This gives it strong antioxidant properties that can help soothe and protect your skin from oxidative damage.

This oil is rich in fatty acids, including: two types of linoleic acid (~30-34%), oleic acid (17%), and palmiteic acid (35%). Note these numbers are averages, and different parts of the plant will vary.

Palmitoleic acid has been shown to help soothe inflammation and promote wound healing. It is also naturally found in the fat of our skin.

Overall, seabuckthorn oil is great for nourishing, hydrating, and soothing skin. While it shows UV protecting properties, it should not replace sunscreen.

Due to the rich fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal acne, safe.

Seabuckthorn berries are little orange fruits. This plant is native to Asia.

Learn more about Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Mixed

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil is derived from the kernels of the argania spinosa tree. You may know it as argan oil.

Argan Oil is an antioxidant, hydrating, and soothing ingredient.

Studies have shown argan oil can help fight again radical damage from the sun. This makes it effective at preventing hyperpigmentation.

Large amounts of vitamin E found in argan oil helps the skin retain water. Argan oil also contains fatty acids such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, and palmitic acid. It is also a good source of lipids.

Another benefit of argan oil is skin-soothing. It can help reduce inflammation-related skin symptoms.

Argan Oil is effective at regulating sebum production in pores. This can make it effective at treating hormonal acne.

Traditionally, argan oil was used for its antibacterial and antifungal properties. However, argan oil contains fatty acids that may make it not fungal-acne safe.

Argan Trees are native to Morocco.

Learn more about Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Skin Conditioning
Very Disliked

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter is a plant lipid from the fruit of the Shea Tree. It is an effective skin hydrator and emollient.

Emollients help soothe and soften your skin. It does this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.

Shea butter is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals, or molecules that may harm the body. It is also full of fatty acids including stearic acid and linoleic acid. These acids help replenish the skin and keep skin moisturized.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

Shea butter may not be fungal acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Loved

Ceramide NP is a type of ceramide.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.

Ceramides are an important building block for our skin barrier. A stronger barrier helps the skin look more firm and hydrated. By bolstering the skin ceramides act as a barrier against irritating ingredients. This can help with inflammation as well.

If you would like to eat ceramides, sweet potatoes contain a small amount.

Read more about other common types of ceramides here: Ceramide AP Ceramide EOP

Learn more about Ceramide NP
Humectant, Moisturising
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Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.

In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.

Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.

Learn more about Trehalose
Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning
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Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract comes from the common Marigold plant. This ingredient is a skin conditioner.

Marigolds contain flavonoids. Flavonoids are a group of substances found naturally in plants. They possess antioxidant and inflammation properties.

This ingredient soothes skin inflammation by inhibiting inhibiting a part of the inflammation process.

Marigolds have been used in traditional medicine throughout Asia and Europe.

Learn more about Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Caprylhydroxamic Acid is a chelating agent.

Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted reactions and effects from using the product.

Caprylhydroxamic Acid is often used with natural antimicrobial products as an alternative to preservatives.

Learn more about Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Mixed

1,2-Hexanediol is a multi-tasker ingredient. It acts as a preservative to increase shelf-life and can aid other preservatives in preventing microbe growth. 1,2-Hexanediol also helps the skin retain moisture as a humectant.

In products that are water-based, this ingredient can help stabilize perfumes and fragrances. It can also help make the texture of products softer and more smooth.

We don't have a description for Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
Loved

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract comes from the outer layer of a rice kernel. It is a byproduct of milling rice, or the operation to produce a whole grain rice product.

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract is moisturizing. This is due to its components of polysaccharides and omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains calcium, selenium, phosphorus, iron, and zinc.

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract contains numerous antioxidants such as ferulic acid. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material.

Learn more about Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Cucurbitaceae Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Orchid Extract yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning
Liked

We don't have a description for Honey Extract yet.

Emollient, Skin Protecting, Tonic
Loved

Panax Ginseng Root is a popular herb from Asia. This root contains antioxidants, favonoids, and vitamins B12 and D.

Ginseng Root helps increase skin hydration, even out texture and tone, and helps improve wrinkles.

Ginseng root helps improve blood circulation and oxygen flow. This in turn helps nourish the skin and improve wrinkles. By speeding up circulation, ginseng root can also help drain fluids.

Ginseng root contains both Vitamin D and B12. Both of these vitamins help boost collagen production in your skin. Collagen gives you skin the appearance of looking plump and firm.

Ginseng Root can also aid in decreasing inflammation.

Studies also show ginseng may help with hyperpigmentation. Ginseng disrupts the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme that starts the process of skin darkening.

Historically, people in East Asia have used ginseng as both food and medicine.

Learn more about Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Masking, Skin Conditioning
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Carthamus tinctorius seed oil comes from safflower, one of humanity's oldest crops.

Safflower seed oil contains a high percentage of linoleic acid and oleic acid. It also contains Vitamin E. These three components are effective moisturizers.

Vitamin E helps nourish your skin's lipid barrier. It is also a potent antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or unstable molecules that may damage your skin cells.

Due to its high fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be malassezia folliculitis safe.

Thoughout history, safflower has been used for dying fabrics and in food as a saffron substitute.

Learn more about Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Liked

Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.

Phytosphingosine is already present in our skin. On our skin, it is a building block for ceramides.

Phytosphingosine tells our skin to increase its natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.

Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.

Phytosphingosine is also abundant in plants and fungi.

More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:

Learn more about Phytosphingosine
Cleansing, Emulsifying
Very Disliked

Ceteareth-20 is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. It is derived from cetearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol.

As an emulsifier, Ceteareth-20 prevents oil and water from separating. It is also a surfactant. Surfactants help gather oil, pollution, and dirt to be washed away.

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate isn't fungal acne safe.

Masking, Perfuming
Very Disliked

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

In the US, the alternative name for parfum is 'fragrance'.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Parfum

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