Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum Versus SkinBetter Science Alto Defense Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and clear breakouts.
This calming serum is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to calm redness and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
Buffering
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Propanediol
Solvent
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Kojic Acid
Antioxidant
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Glycerin
Humectant
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Hexylresorcinol
Antimicrobial
Ethyl Linoleate
Emollient
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial
Dodecane
Emollient
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Glyceryl Laurate
Emollient
Glyceryl Undecylenate
Emollient
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Ribose
HumectantSodium Acetate
BufferingBakuchiol
Antimicrobial
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Cellulose
Absorbent
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Water, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Kojic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylresorcinol, Ethyl Linoleate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Dodecane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Bisabolol, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Allantoin, Ribose, Sodium Acetate, Bakuchiol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
Humectant
Propanediol
Solvent
Ethylhexyl Olivate
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Chlorogenic Acids
Antioxidant
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning
Lauryl Lactate
EmollientDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Ergothioneine
Antioxidant
Benzylidene Dimethoxydimethylindanone
Skin ProtectingArabidopsis Thaliana Extract
Antioxidant
Carnosine
Skin Conditioning
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Antimicrobial
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Antioxidant
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Antioxidant
Olea Europaea Fruit Extract
BleachingEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Skin Conditioning
Buddleja Officinalis Flower Extract
UV FilterCoffea Arabica Leaf Cell Extract
Antioxidant
Crocus Sativus Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Skin ProtectingSuperoxide Dismutase
Antioxidant
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Masking
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide AP
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide EOP
Skin Conditioning
Linoleic Acid
Cleansing
Linolenic Acid
Cleansing
Sea Whip Extract
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Cholesterol
Emollient
Phytosphingosine
Skin Conditioning
Jojoba Esters
Emollient
Sodium PCA
Humectant
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Methyl Gluceth-20
Humectant
Glycerin
Humectant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
Emollient
Lecithin
Emollient
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingDicetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPropanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate
EmollientPolyglycerin-3
Humectant
Ceteth-20 Phosphate
CleansingDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSteareth-2
EmulsifyingAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingDextran
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingCitric Acid
Buffering
Disodium EDTA
ChelatingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Chlorogenic Acids, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Lauryl Lactate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ergothioneine, Benzylidene Dimethoxydimethylindanone, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Carnosine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Buddleja Officinalis Flower Extract, Coffea Arabica Leaf Cell Extract, Crocus Sativus Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Superoxide Dismutase, Ubiquinone, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Sea Whip Extract, Bisabolol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Jojoba Esters, Sodium PCA, Pentylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Lecithin, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate, Polyglycerin-3, Ceteth-20 Phosphate, Diisostearyl Malate, Xanthan Gum, Steareth-2, Acacia Senegal Gum, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dextran, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
