Versus

Sungboon Editor Silk Peptide Intensive Lifting Ampoule Versus MEDI-PEEL Radiance Stem On Zet Premium Ampoule Kit

Serum
Ampoule
Korean Brand South Korea
Korean Brand South Korea

Updated on September 25, 2024

Overview

What they are

These products are both reef safe . They have a total of 28 ingredients in common

Cool Features

They both contain hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides and Vitamin C

Suited For

They're both likely to be good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

They both do not contain any harsh alcohols, common allergens, fragrances, oils, parabens, silicones or sulfates

We independently verify ingredients, and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Spot a product that needs an update? Let us know.

Ingredient Info

Click any item below to learn more and see relevant ingredients

About this product

About this product

At a glance

Click on any of the items below to learn more

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

found in both products
Silk Peptide Intensive Lifting Ampoule

Silk Extract

Skin Conditioning

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Water

Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Methylpropanediol

Solvent

Chondrus Crispus Powder

Abrasive
Exfoliant Icon

Agar

Masking

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Tromethamine

Buffering

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

CI 77891

Cosmetic Colorant

CI 77491

Cosmetic Colorant

Mica

Cosmetic Colorant
May worsen Eczema Icon

Gellan Gum

Tin Oxide

Abrasive
Exfoliant Icon

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconGood for Oily Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24

Emulsifying

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Sh-Decapeptide-7

Antioxidant
Peptide IconAntioxidant Icon

Sh-Octapeptide-4

Antioxidant
Peptide IconAntioxidant Icon

Sh-Oligopeptide-9

Humectant
Peptide Icon

Sh-Pentapeptide-19

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Caffeoyl Hexapeptide-65

Antimicrobial
Peptide IconAntioxidant Icon

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Emulsion Stabilising

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Good for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Disodium EDTA

Betaine

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Centella Asiatica Extract

Cleansing
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Caprylyl Glycol

Emollient

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Humectant
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Copper Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconGood for Skin Texture IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Propanediol

Solvent

Benzyl Glycol

Solvent

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Humectant

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid Icon

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid Icon

Lecithin

Emollient

Acetyl Glutamine

Skin Conditioning

Bacillus/Folic Acid/Soybean Ferment Extract

Skin Conditioning

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Collagen

Moisturising
Helps with Anti-Aging Icon

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Emollient

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Gold

Cosmetic Colorant

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Emollient
1 / 2

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Squalane

Emollient
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon
Radiance Stem On Zet Premium Ampoule Kit

Water

Skin Conditioning

Methylpropanediol

Solvent

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconGood for Oily Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Propanediol

Solvent

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Human Mononuclear Cell Conditioned Media Extract

Skin Conditioning

Squalane

Emollient
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Phospholipids

Skin Conditioning

Phytosphingosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Phytosterols

Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Humectant
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Copper Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconGood for Skin Texture IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-8

Humectant
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-59

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-4

Antioxidant
Peptide IconAntioxidant Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-31

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-64

Antioxidant
Peptide IconAntioxidant Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-2

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-5

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Madecassoside

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Asiaticoside

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid Icon

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Emulsion Stabilising

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying

Ceramide NP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Humectant
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Lecithin

Emollient

Glyceryl Glucoside

Humectant

Centella Asiatica Extract

Cleansing
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Solanum Lycopersicum Callus Culture Extract

Oryza Sativa Callus Culture Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ipomoea Hederacea Callus Culture Extract

Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract

Skin Conditioning

Nelumbo Nucifera Callus Culture Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant Icon

Neofinetia Falcata Callus Culture Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

Emollient

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Allantoin

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Glycine

Buffering
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Serine

Masking

Leucine

Skin Conditioning

Alanine

Masking

Lysine

Skin Conditioning

Arginine

Masking
Good for Scar Healing IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Tyrosine

Masking

Phenylalanine

Masking

Valine

Masking

Threonine

Proline

Skin Conditioning

Isoleucine

Skin Conditioning

Histidine

Humectant

Methionine

Skin Conditioning

Cysteine

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Emulsion Stabilising

Caprylyl Glycol

Emollient

Dipropylene Glycol

Masking

Octyldodecanol

Emollient

Pantolactone

Humectant

Sodium Surfactin

Cleansing

Glutamic Acid

Humectant

Aspartic Acid

Masking

Hydroxyacetophenone

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Tromethamine

Buffering

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Good for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Disodium EDTA

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Water, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Glycerin, Human Mononuclear Cell Conditioned Media Extract, Squalane, Phospholipids, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-8, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-59, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-4, Sh-Polypeptide-31, Sh-Polypeptide-64, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-5, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lecithin, Glyceryl Glucoside, Centella Asiatica Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Callus Culture Extract, Oryza Sativa Callus Culture Extract, Ipomoea Hederacea Callus Culture Extract, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Callus Culture Extract, Neofinetia Falcata Callus Culture Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Glycine, Serine, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Pantolactone, Sodium Surfactin, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse. 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives 
Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin (we can't pronounce this either) is commonly used as a preservative and skin softener. It is derived from glyceryl.

You might see Ethylhexylglycerin often paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol. Ethylhexylglycerin has been found to increase the effectiveness of these other preservatives.

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

  • It is a solvent, meaning that it helps to dissolve other ingredients. This also enhances the absorption of the product into one's skin.
  • It is a humectant, which means that it helps attract moisture into the skin.
  • It helps improve product application.
  • It has mild preservative properties.

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.

As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.

Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.

In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.

This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin

Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.

As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.

Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.

Learn more about Methylpropanediol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken and improve the texture of products. Due to its properties, it can prevent water and oil ingredients from separating.

Buffering, Masking

Tromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.

As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.

Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.

1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-

Learn more about Tromethamine
Smoothing

Niacinamide has emerged as an all-star ingredient due to its many benefits.

It is known to treat acne by reducing inflammation. It also helps fade dark-spots and strengthen the skin by promoting the growth of the ceramide barrier.

Other benefits include smoothing wrinkles and minimizing redness.

The cherry on top? Niacinamide can also help build keratin, a protein that keeps skin firm.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

Niacinamide can be mixed with other ingredients to boost benefits. For instance, it has shown to be effective when used with copper, folic acid, and zinc to treat acne.

Learn more about Niacinamide
Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Carbomer is a polymer of acrylic acid. Its main role is to create a gel consistency.

A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.

Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising

Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.

This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.

This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.

Learn more about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Skin Conditioning

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.

Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.

In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.

Learn more about Adenosine

Disodium EDTA plays a role in making products more stable by aiding other preservatives.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it neutralizes metal ions that may be found in a product.

Disodium EDTA is a salt of edetic acid and is found to be safe in cosmetic ingredients.

Learn more about Disodium EDTA
Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.

Studies show the compounds in centella help with:

The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.

Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Learn more about Centella Asiatica Extract
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant and emollient, meaning it attracts and preserves moisture.

It is a common ingredient in many products, especially those designed to hydrate skin. The primary benefits are retaining moisture, skin softening, and promoting a healthy skin barrier.

Though Caprylyl Glycol is an alcohol derived from fatty acids, it is not the kind that can dry out skin.

This ingredient is also used as a preservative to extend the life of products. It has slight antimicrobial properties.

Learn more about Caprylyl Glycol
Skin Conditioning

You might know this ingredients as Matrixyl, a famous peptide.

Peptides are building blocks for protein. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 consists of five amino acids. These amino acids include: 2 lysines, 2 threonines, and serine

This ingredients tells our body to create more collagen. Collagen is a protein that makes connective tissue. Boosting collagen production leads to a healthier skin barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier means having firm and hydrated skin.

Thus, Matrixyl may help improve the look of wrinkles.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a peptide. A common name for this peptide is Argireline.

Argireline has a similar function to botox; it prevents muscle movement and contractions slightly. By preventing muscles from moving, argireline also prohibits the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. However, research is lacking in proving this ingredient to be as effective as botox.

On the other hand, argireline tells our body to create more collagen. Collagen is a protein that makes connective tissue. Boosting collagen production leads to a healthier skin barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier means having firm and hydrated skin.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Skin Conditioning

Copper Tripeptide-1 is a peptide naturally found in body fluids. Peptides are building blocks for protein.

Studies show this ingredient tells our body to create more collagen and elastin. Collagen is a protein that makes connective tissue. Elastin is the protein responsible for giving our skin elasticity. Our bodies start to slow down collagen and elastin production with age.

Boosting collagen and elastin production can help create a healthier skin barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier means having firm and hydrated skin. It's a win-win situation!

This ingredient helps with scar healing. This is because it breaks down damaged collagen, the main component of scar tissue. It may also help with reducing sunspots, acne scars, and uneven skin tone.

On top of all this, Copper Tripeptide-1 is also an antioxidant. Antioxidants help the body fight off free-radicals. Free radicals are molecules that damage our cells, such as pollution and tobacco smoke.

More benefits: Copper Tripeptide-1 helps maintain tissues in blood vessels and promote natural hyaluronic acid in skin.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Copper Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Learn more about Panthenol
Solvent

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin. 

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Learn more about Propanediol
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Like hyaluronic acid, it is great at holding water and acts as a humectant. This makes it a great skin hydrating ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate is naturally occurring in our bodies and is mostly found in eye fluid and joints.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of mixture of phospholipids.

This ingredient has emollient and emulsifying properties.

As an emollient, lecithen helps soften the skin and creates a barrier to keep moisture in.

As an emulsifier, it also helps prevent water and oil ingredients from separating. Lecithin can also help ingredients be better absorbed by the skin.

This is because the phospholipids in lecithin produce liposomes. Liposomes help other ingredients get through the skin barrier.

Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that feeds fungal acne.

We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.

Learn more about Lecithin
Skin Conditioning

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Learn more about Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Learn more about Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin Conditioning

Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-11 is a signal protein that tells our skin to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Skin Conditioning

Sh-Polypeptide-9 is a signal peptide that tells our body to create more blood vessels.

It is important to note, this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Squalane is an emollient that helps the skin hold onto moisture. It's an oily liquid that occurs naturally in certain types of fish and plant oils.

Because squalane boosts hydration in the skin, it also comes with plenty of benefits: it is an antioxidant and can help fight free radicals and skin damage. Squalane is also found to have a detoxifying effect when applied.

Squalane comes from squalene, which occurs naturally within the sebum of our skin. It is one of the oils our skin produces to keep itself hydrated. Squalane is the hydrogenated version of squalene and has a longer shelf life.

Research shows that squalane is non-irritating (even at 100% concentration).

In general, it's a fantastic ingredient. It does a great job at hydrating the skin, and it's suitable for those with sensitive skin.

The source of squalane may impact malassezia / fungal acne. This is because olive oil derived squalane can contain impurities such as fatty acids and plant waxes. Sugarcane derived squalane is recommended for anyone with malassezia concerns.

Is squalane vegan?

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Learn more about Squalane

When to use

5 Routines
80% use in am
20% use in pm
60% use every day