Shiseido White Lucent Overnight Cream & Mask Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Intense Wrinkle Cream
This brightening overnight mask is formulated around Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate and Tocopherol to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantSd Alcohol 40-B
AstringentHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientPEG-10 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningSorbitol
HumectantPEG-150
HumectantPEG-400
Emulsion StabilisingDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientPEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
EmulsifyingDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPEG-20
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantPotassium Methoxysalicylate
BleachingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolyvinyl Alcohol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantTrisodium EDTA
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Sodium Citrate
BufferingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Metaphosphate
BufferingPEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether
Skin ConditioningPPG-3 Dipivalate
Skin ConditioningLinalool
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantCitronellol
PerfumingSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantGeraniol
PerfumingPaeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantAngelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingCrataegus Monogyna Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningRehmannia Chinensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Yedoensis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningZiziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrola Incarnata Extract
Skin ConditioningPotentilla Erecta Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAchillea Millefolium Extract
CleansingBenzoic Acid
MaskingWater, Dimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sd Alcohol 40-B, Hydrogenated Polydecene, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Sorbitol, PEG-150, PEG-400, Diisostearyl Malate, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, PEG-20, Trehalose, Potassium Methoxysalicylate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Butylene Glycol, Trisodium EDTA, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Sodium Citrate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Alcohol, Parfum, Caffeine, Citric Acid, Sodium Metaphosphate, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, PPG-3 Dipivalate, Linalool, Tocopherol, Citronellol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Geraniol, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Silica, CI 77491, Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract, Limonene, Crataegus Monogyna Flower Extract, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, Prunus Yedoensis Leaf Extract, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Pyrola Incarnata Extract, Potentilla Erecta Root Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Benzoic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningMethyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientCaprylyl Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBakuchiol
AntimicrobialRetinol
Skin ConditioningFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialNephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSqualane
EmollientOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningEmblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSilybum Marianum Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningJojoba Esters
EmollientSoy Isoflavones
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin ProtectingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingUrsolic Acid
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantLactic Acid
BufferingHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantTetrahydropiperine
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-4 Oleate
EmulsifyingEthylhexyl Olivate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Sodium Phytate
Citric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingIlomastat
Skin ConditioningCitrus Limon Peel Extract
EmollientCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeWater, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Diisostearyl Malate, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Bakuchiol, Retinol, Ferulic Acid, Nephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Ceramide Ng, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Jojoba Esters, Soy Isoflavones, Phospholipids, Saccharide Isomerate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ursolic Acid, Adenosine, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glycine Soja Oil, Tocopherol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Tetrahydropiperine, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Ilomastat, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDiisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water