What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDimethicone
EmollientSqualane
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningLeontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBambusa Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningPisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningGlucosamine Hcl
Ceramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingCamellia Sinensis Polyphenols
AntioxidantMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingMentha Piperita Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
PerfumingLavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
MaskingPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialVaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentRose Extract
Skin ConditioningPogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract
PerfumingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialMentha Viridis Extract
MaskingLecithin
EmollientPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Lysate Extract
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningTribehenin
EmollientCetyl Palmitate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
CleansingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSorbic Acid
PreservativePotassium Hydroxide
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Squalane, Niacinamide, Caffeine, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ng, Phospholipids, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Camellia Sinensis Polyphenols, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Ubiquinone, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Rose Extract, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Mentha Viridis Extract, Lecithin, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tribehenin, Cetyl Palmitate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantTricaprylin
PerfumingCetyl Esters
EmollientCanarium Indicum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientSqualane
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantMethylsilanol Carboxymethyl Theophylline Alginate
Skin ConditioningHordeum Distichon Extract
Skin ProtectingYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningSantalum Album Extract
CleansingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningPhellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningLauryl Lactate
EmollientSteareth-10
EmulsifyingCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningDihydromyricetin
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningEnteromorpha Compressa Extract
Skin ProtectingTripleurospermum Maritimum Extract
Skin ProtectingPalmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Skin ConditioningBambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract
HumectantSteareth-20
CleansingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningPisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantGlucosamine Hcl
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantPEG-10 Phytosterol
EmulsifyingTetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Skin ConditioningTriethanolamine
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientDiazolidinyl Urea
PreservativeCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingIodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeMagnesium Chloride
Sodium Benzoate
MaskingSorbic Acid
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Tricaprylin, Cetyl Esters, Canarium Indicum Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Methylsilanol Carboxymethyl Theophylline Alginate, Hordeum Distichon Extract, Yeast Extract, Santalum Album Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Lauryl Lactate, Steareth-10, Ceramide Ng, Dihydromyricetin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Tripleurospermum Maritimum Extract, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Steareth-20, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Pisum Sativum Extract, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, Glucosamine Hcl, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Triethanolamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Tribehenin, Diazolidinyl Urea, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Potassium Sorbate, Magnesium Chloride, Sodium Benzoate, Sorbic Acid, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCeramide NG is a type of Ceramide. The NG stands for a sphinganine base.
Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.
Ceramides are an important building block for our skin barrier. A stronger barrier helps the skin look more firm and hydrated. By bolstering the skin ceramides act as a barrier against irritating ingredients. This can help with inflammation as well.
If you would like to eat ceramides, sweet potatoes contain a small amount.
Read more about other common types of ceramides here:
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide NP
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAWe don't have a description for Glucosamine Hcl yet.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 is a synthetic lipopeptide. This just means it's a short chain of six amino acids with a palmitic acid molecule attached to one end.
The palmitoyl group increases the lipophilicity, helping it penetrate the lipid-rich outer layer of skin more effectively.
Once inside, it helps with keeping skin springy and firm. It works by mimicking the skin repair signals your skin naturally sends out when it's damaged and telling it to kick into rebuild mode.
Studies have shown it can help strengthen the skin barrier as well so it's useful beyond just anti-aging.
In vitro studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure. Just keep in mind most of the strong evidence is from lab studies rather than large-scale clinical trials.
Lab studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure.
This ingredient is usually used at very low concentrations (0.002% in leave-on products).
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
We don't have a description for Pisum Sativum Extract yet.
Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Sorbic Acid is a preservative that stops your product from spoiling by stopping microbes from growing.
As a preservative, it's kind of a specialist: it has a broad spectrum of activity against yeast and molds but is weaker against bacteria. That's why it's often paired with another preservative to cover that gap.
This ingredient is also pretty picky about pH; it performs best at pH 6.5 or below.
At the right pH level, sorbic acid is "active" and can slip through the outer wall of a microbe. Once inside, it turns the cell's interior more acidic to shut down the microbe from the inside.
The EU caps this ingredient at 0.6% while the CIR has concluded it's safe at concentrations up to 1%. It's most often used around 0.05-0.2% in cosmetics.
Though this ingredient is considered low-sensitizing and well-tolerated, a very small number of people may have a contact allergy to it. Be sure to patch test if you have a history of allergies towards preservatives.
Learn more about Sorbic AcidSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about TribeheninWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum