This brightening essence is formulated around Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin.
This calming essence is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventMicrococcus Lysate
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantStreptococcus Thermophilus Ferment
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantHydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventTromethamine
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingSodium Phytate
ChelatingCyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingAgar
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPyrus Malus Juice
Skin ConditioningCynanchum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Micrococcus Lysate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Tocopherol, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Trehalose, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Propanediol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Sodium Phytate, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Agar, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Pyrus Malus Juice, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Xanthan Gum, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantMadecassoside
AntioxidantSodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantArtemisia Capillaris Extract
Ascorbic Acid
AntioxidantDimethyl Sulfone
SolventMorinda Citrifolia Extract
AstringentPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCichorium Intybus Root Extract
MaskingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingHamamelis Virginiana Extract
AntiseborrhoeicAdenosine
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingSerine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantSparassis Crispa Extract
Emulsion StabilisingAspartic Acid
MaskingOlea Europaea Fruit Extract
BleachingLeucine
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningBacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingAlanine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientVaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentRubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract
AstringentVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Arginine
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingValine
MaskingThreonine
Proline
Skin ConditioningIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientHistidine
HumectantSolanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientNelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMethionine
Skin ConditioningCysteine
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingWater
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientHydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
AntioxidantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantCentella Asiatica Leaf Water, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Madecassoside, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Tocopherol, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Dimethyl Sulfone, Morinda Citrifolia Extract, Panthenol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cichorium Intybus Root Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Adenosine, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Sparassis Crispa Extract, Aspartic Acid, Olea Europaea Fruit Extract, Leucine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Bacillus Ferment, Sclerotium Gum, Alanine, Lysine, Caprylyl Glycol, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Isoleucine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Octyldodecanol, Histidine, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Methionine, Cysteine, Ceramide NP, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Water, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Glycine Soja Sterols, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHydroxydecyl Ubiquinone (aka Idebenone) is an antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals, or the unstable molecules that break down collagen and speed up visible aging.
It's a synthetic analog of Coenzyme Q10 but with a much smaller molecular weight. In theory, this gives it greater potential to penetrate skin.
The headline claim comes from a 2005 study that ranked Idebenone's oxidative-stress protection against five popular antioxidants (Vitamin C, Vitamin E, CoQ10, Kinetin, and Alpha Lipoic Acid). This study found it performed strongly in their testing model.
A companion six-week clinical trial on 41 women with moderately photodamaged skin found a 1% Idebenone formula showed a 26% reduction in skin roughness and dryness, a 37% increase in hydration, a 29% reduction in fine-lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall photodamage. One thing worth noting about this study is that there was no vehicle control so not all benefits can be pinned on idebenone alone.
Typical usage for this ingredient sits between 0.5-1% (both concentrations validated in clinical work).
On the safety side, Idebenone is well tolerated by most people. There are a handful of documented allergic contact dermatitis in individual users so be sure to patch test if you have sensitive or reactive skin.
Learn more about Hydroxydecyl UbiquinonePentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water