This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinal and Retinyl Retinoate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventVinyldimethicone
Glycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Olivate
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPropylene Glycol
HumectantSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Malt Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract
Skin ProtectingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentDextrin
AbsorbentDisodium EDTA
ChelatingSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingTrideceth-10
CleansingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingCholesterol
EmollientPhytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningAluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Emulsion StabilisingBrassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientRetinal
Skin ConditioningPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Vinyldimethicone, Glycerin, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, C14-22 Alcohols, Cetearyl Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Propylene Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Hydrolyzed Malt Extract, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Sodium Polyacrylate, Dextrin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Carbomer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Sodium Lactate, Trideceth-10, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Phosphatidylcholine, Cholesterol, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Retinal, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCoco-Caprylate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientTribehenin PEG-20 Esters
EmollientSilica
AbrasiveCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientBetaine
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24
EmulsifyingRetinal
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Retinoate
Skin ConditioningSodium Retinoyl Hyaluronate
Jojoba Esters
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantMannitol
HumectantPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingIsopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientAcacia Decurrens Flower Wax
EmollientPolyglycerin-3
HumectantDiethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Skin ProtectingBenzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
UV AbsorberXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantPhosphoric Acid
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Chloride
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters, Silica, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Betaine, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, Retinal, Retinyl Retinoate, Sodium Retinoyl Hyaluronate, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Mannitol, Phosphatidylcholine, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Polyglycerin-3, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Phosphoric Acid, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhosphatidylcholine (PC) is a type of phospholipid, a class of molecule that makes up our own cell membranes.
It has a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tails (mostly linoleic, palmitic, and oleic), and a phosphate-choline head group.
In skincare, PC pulls double duty:
The linoleic acid it carries gets incorporated into skin ceramides and helps reinforce the lipid matrix.
Interestingly, it can help top of the omega-6 fatty acid that's often low in acne-prone and atopic skin. There's a sizeable body of literature that supports its use in dry, barrier-impaired, and breakout-prone skin.
There are two kinds of PC you'll see on ingredient lists.
Use levels range from <1% as a liposomal carrier and between 20-40% in lamellar matrix sytems.
Learn more about PhosphatidylcholinePotassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.
As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.
Learn more about Potassium Cetyl PhosphateRetinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.
What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.
Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.
Studies back up its efficacy in skin:
A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.
And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.
More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).
Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.
This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.
Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.
Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.
Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
Learn more about RetinalWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water