What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantShea Butter Glycerides
EmulsifyingSodium PCA
HumectantSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSalvia Hispanica Seed Oil
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingWithania Somnifera Root Extract
Skin ConditioningLinum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
PerfumingSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantBrassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
HumectantEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPropanediol
SolventLinoleic Acid
CleansingLinolenic Acid
CleansingAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
AstringentXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Shea Butter Glycerides, Sodium PCA, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Withania Somnifera Root Extract, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Astaxanthin, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientShea Butter Glycerides
EmulsifyingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingCetearyl Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantCaryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantLinoleic Acid
CleansingLinolenic Acid
CleansingPropanediol
SolventPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingOleic Acid
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Shea Butter Glycerides, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Olivate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Propanediol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is a chelating agent that helps cosmetics stay fresh, stable, and consistent over time.
Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted reactions and effects from using the product. It also helps prevent the growth of unwanted microbes in products that contain water.
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is often used with natural antimicrobial products as an alternative to preservatives.
Learn more about Caprylhydroxamic AcidCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateDicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLinoleic Acid is also known as Vitamin F. It is a fatty acid with emollient and skin conditioning properties.
Our top layer of skin, or epidermis, naturally contains high amounts of linoleic acid.
Your body uses linoleic acid to build ceramides and prostaglandins. Ceramides keep your skin's barrier hydrated and strong while prosaglandins help control inflammation and healing.
Needless to say, linoleic acid is crucial for having a strong skin barrier.
One study found applying linoleic acid rich sunflower oil to be more effective at repairing the skin barrier than olive oil.
This ingredient can also help treat acne by softening sebum to prevent clogged pores. Another study found using 2.5% linoleic acid gel for 4 weeks showed a 25% reduction in small comedones.
Studies show it can also help lighten hyperpigmentation or sun spots by disrupting the melanin production process. It also helps your skin shed melanin pigment from your skin caused by UV exposure.
Due to its role in the production of the fatty acid prostaglandin, linoleic acid can also help reduce inflammation and support wound healing.
Fun fact: Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid. This means our bodies cannot create it on its own and we need to get it through foods such as nuts and vegetable oils.
Just know this ingredient is not always fungal-acne safe because it is a long-chain fatty acid (with 18 carbon atoms) that directly feeds the Malassezia yeast responsible for fungal acne.
Learn more about Linoleic AcidLinolenic Acid is also known as "ALA" or alpha-linolenic acid. It is a key fatty acid.
Our skin uses this ingredient for maintaining a healthy skin barrier, regulating inflammation, and supporting keratinocyte function.
ALA is a great skin hydrator because it has the ability to restore lipids in our stratum corneum, or outermost layer of our skin; it also helps prevent transepidermal water loss.
This ingredient also helps soothe irritated skin by downregulating inflammation.
Chia seed oil is one of the highest natural sources of ALA. Research shows topical chia seed oil significantly improves skin hydration, reduces itch, and strengthens the barrier in both healthy and extremely dry skin.
Additionally, in-vivo and in-vitro studies show ALA exhibits antioxidant properties, reduces UV-induced inflammation, and supports wound healing.
Early research showed a fatty-acid deficiency in animals leads to abnormal skin barrier function. It is believed a deficiency in linolenic acid may be linked to skin disorders like eczema.
Fun fact: This ingredient is considered an essential fatty acid for humans. This means our bodies cannot naturally produce it and we must get it from food. Some foods rich in linolenic acid include walnuts, fish oils, soy, and canola.
Learn more about Linolenic AcidPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil (aka marula oil) is a skin hydrating ingredient.
Its fatty acid profile is dominated by oleic acid (~69%), palmitic acid (~15%), linoleic acid (~9%), and palmitoleic acid (~4%).
These fatty acids are very similar to those naturally found in the epidermis, making this oil biomimetic; basically, your skin recognizes it.
Clinical testing found this ingredient to be moisturizing and non-irritating, with noteworthy effects on reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Besides fatty acids, marula oil is also rich in oxidative stabilizers like vitamin E, vitamin C precursors, and polyphenols. This gives it excellent shelf stability compared to most facial oils.
This is a great ingredient for dry, dull, or barrier-compromised skin.
Just know it may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fatty acids can as as a food source for the Malassezia yeast.
Learn more about Sclerocarya Birrea Seed OilThis ingredient is comprised of the glycerides from shea butter. It has similar properties to shea butter but made to have low odor.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is less greasy than shea butter. It is also often used as an emulsifier, or an ingredient that helps keep other ingredients together.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Shea Butter GlyceridesSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water