What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Glycerin
Humectant
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Emulsifying
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Pseudozyma Epicola/Nitrosomonas Europaea/Oil Ferment Filtrate
Skin Conditioning
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Masking
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin Conditioning
Enterococcus Faecium/Saururus Chinensis Extract Ferment Filtrate
EmollientAspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Fruit Oil
Emollient
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Vitis Vinifera Oil
Perfuming
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
Masking
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Pseudozyma Epicola/Nitrosomonas Europaea/Oil Ferment Filtrate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Enterococcus Faecium/Saururus Chinensis Extract Ferment Filtrate, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningShea Butter Ethyl Esters
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glycerin
Humectant
Cetearyl Olivate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
Masking
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Emollient
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
Glucosyl Hesperidin
HumectantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCentella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis Flower Extract
HumectantCitrus Grandis Peel Extract
Astringent
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Masking
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin Protecting
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
Buffering
Propanediol
Solvent
Phenethyl Alcohol
MaskingPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Limonene
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Water, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Squalane, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis Flower Extract, Citrus Grandis Peel Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Propanediol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Limonene, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is the salt of ascorbic acid.
This ingredient is commonly used in skincare because it's more formulation-stable while still offering the same benefits as pure ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and oxygen whereas SAP has been shown to be more stable.
Studies show SAP has anti-acne and antioxidant benefits. One study found 5% of SAP lotion to be an effective ingredient for treating acne vulgaris. This is because research shows that SAP may help control acne by reducing acne-causing bacteria and slowing the oxidation of skin oils caused by UV exposure.
In addition to acne, vitamin C is important for skin structure. Lab studies suggest SAP may support collagen production in skin cells, making it a great ingredient in anti-aging routines.
Vitamin C has many benefits: it helps reduce redness, improve skin texture, fade the appearance of dark spots, and brighten the skin.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Learn more about Sodium Ascorbyl PhosphateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
