Emulsion
Emulsion
Japanese Japan
Japanese Japan

What's inside

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Show highlights for:

Water

Skin Conditioning

Alcohol Denat.

Antimicrobial
Alcohol IconCan worsen Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Dipropylene Glycol

Humectant

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

UV Absorber
0 / 0 UV Protection IconChemical UV Filter IconMay cause irritation IconNon-Reef-Safe Icon

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Diisopropyl Sebacate

Emollient

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

UV Absorber
UV Protection IconChemical UV Filter Icon

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Emollient

Silica

Abrasive
Exfoliant IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores Icon

Isostearic Acid

Cleansing
Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

PEG-5 Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

UV Absorber
UV Protection IconChemical UV Filter Icon

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Skin Conditioning
UV Protection IconChemical UV Filter Icon

Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone

Skin Conditioning
Silicon Icon

PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether

Skin Conditioning

Triethanolamine

Buffering
2 / 0

Behenic Acid

Cleansing
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Stearic Acid

Cleansing
2-3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Emulsifying
3 / 2 Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Behenyl Alcohol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

CI 77891

Cosmetic Colorant

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Batyl Alcohol

Emollient

Mica

Cosmetic Colorant

PEG-30 Phytosterol

Emulsifying

Theanine

Emollient

Disodium EDTA

PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone

Emulsifying
Silicon Icon

Dimethylacrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Crosspolymer

Trehalose

Humectant
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

PEG/PPG-17/4 Dimethyl Ether

Skin Conditioning

Tocopheryl Acetate

Antioxidant
0 / 0 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Emollient
1 / 2

Alcohol

Antimicrobial
Alcohol IconCan worsen Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

BHT

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Sodium Metaphosphate

Buffering

Cellulose Gum

Emulsion Stabilising
0 / 0

Parfum

Masking
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Sodium Metabisulfite

Antioxidant
Preservative IconAntioxidant Icon

Hexyl Cinnamal

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Citronellol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Geraniol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Crataegus Monogyna Flower Extract

Skin Conditioning

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Benzyl Benzoate

Antimicrobial
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Hydrolyzed Silk

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Glycine

Buffering
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Ononis Spinosa Root Extract

Antiseborrhoeic

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Astringent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Peel Extract

Antimicrobial

Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract

Tonic

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

CI 77491

Cosmetic Colorant

Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract

Tonic

Benzoic Acid

Masking
Preservative IconMay worsen Eczema Icon

Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract

Tonic

Isodonis Japonicus Leaf/Stalk Extract

Masking

Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein

Skin Conditioning

Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Water, Alcohol Denat., Dipropylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Dimethicone, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Glycerin, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Silica, Isostearic Acid, PEG-5 Glyceryl Stearate, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Triethanolamine, Behenic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Behenyl Alcohol, CI 77891, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Batyl Alcohol, Mica, PEG-30 Phytosterol, Theanine, Disodium EDTA, PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, Dimethylacrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Crosspolymer, Trehalose, PEG/PPG-17/4 Dimethyl Ether, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Alcohol, BHT, Sodium Metaphosphate, Cellulose Gum, Parfum, Tocopherol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Hexyl Cinnamal, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Limonene, Linalool, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Geraniol, Crataegus Monogyna Flower Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Benzyl Benzoate, Hydrolyzed Silk, Glycine, Ononis Spinosa Root Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Peel Extract, Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, CI 77491, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract, Benzoic Acid, Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract, Isodonis Japonicus Leaf/Stalk Extract, Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract

Water

Skin Conditioning

Alcohol Denat.

Antimicrobial
Alcohol IconCan worsen Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dipropylene Glycol

Humectant

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Emollient

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Emollient

PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether

Skin Conditioning

PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate

Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Tricaprylin

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Trehalose

Humectant
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Potassium Methoxysalicylate

Bleaching

PEG-5 Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Petrolatum

Emollient
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin Icon

Stearic Acid

Cleansing
2-3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Behenyl Alcohol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

Isostearic Acid

Cleansing
Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Behenic Acid

Cleansing
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Potassium Hydroxide

Buffering

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Theanine

Emollient

Batyl Alcohol

Emollient

PEG/PPG-17/4 Dimethyl Ether

Skin Conditioning

Tocopheryl Acetate

Antioxidant
0 / 0 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Polyquaternium-51

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Parfum

Masking
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Alcohol

Antimicrobial
Alcohol IconCan worsen Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Sodium Metaphosphate

Buffering

Disodium EDTA

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Humectant
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Sodium Metabisulfite

Antioxidant
Preservative IconAntioxidant Icon

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Citronellol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Olea Europaea Leaf Extract

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Geraniol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Benzyl Benzoate

Antimicrobial
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Hydrolyzed Silk

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Serine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Rubus Suavissimus Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

CI 77491

Cosmetic Colorant

CI 77492

Cosmetic Colorant

Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract

Masking
May worsen Eczema Icon

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Benzoic Acid

Masking
Preservative IconMay worsen Eczema Icon

Uncaria Gambir Extract

Astringent

Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract

Tonic

Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein

Skin Conditioning

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking

This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.

In formulas, it:

Is it bad for your skin?

The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.

Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.

In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.

This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.

Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).

Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.

According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.

True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.

Learn more about Alcohol
Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking

Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.

The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).

This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.

However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.

Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.

This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.

Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.

Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.

The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.

One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).

Also...

This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.

The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.

Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.

This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.

Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.

Learn more about Alcohol Denat.
Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is a fragrance. It can be synthetically created or naturally occurring.

The scent of Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is described as "flowery" but can also be "woody".

Naturally occurring Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone may be found in Saccharomyces cerevisiae, or the yeast used to make wine and bread.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

We don't have a description for Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract yet.

Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Batyl Alcohol yet.

Cleansing, Emulsifying

Behenic Acid is a fatty acid and has moisturizing properties.

It is naturally occuring in the Moringa oleifera tree, rapeseed oil, and peanut oil.

This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Behenic Acid
Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising

Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).

Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.

Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.

In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.

Learn more about Behenyl Alcohol
Masking, Preservative

Benzoic Acid is used to preserve and adjust the pH of products.

The antimicrobial property of Benzoic Acid helps elongate a product's shelf life. Its main role is to reduce fungi growth and is not found to be effective at fighting bacteria. Therefore Benzoic Acid is always added along with other preservatives.

In its pure form, Benzoic Acid looks like a white crystalline solid. It has slight solubility in water.

The name of Benzoic Acid comes from gum benzoin, which used to be the sole source of deriving this ingredient. Benzoic Acid is the most simple aromatic carboxylic acid.

Benzoic Acid is naturally occuring in strawberries, mustard, cinnamon, and cloves. It has a slight scent but is not considered to be a fragrance.

Learn more about Benzoic Acid
Antimicrobial, Perfuming, Solvent

Benzyl Benzoate is usually created from the condensation of benzoic acid and benzyl alcohol. It is used as a preservative, solvent, and has a floral/balsamic scent in large amounts.

As a preservative, Benzyl Benzoate works against bacteria and fungus. It is often used to treat scabies and lice in medicine.

Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.

Due to its fragrance, Benzyl Benzoate can be sensitizing and may cause contact dermatitis. It is a known EU allergen. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Benzyl Benzoate can be naturally found in cranberries and peaches.

Learn more about Benzyl Benzoate

We don't have a description for Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract yet.

Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.

Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.

Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.

Learn more about CI 77491
Perfuming

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Learn more about Citronellol
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Learn more about Dimethicone
Humectant, Masking, Solvent

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Learn more about Dipropylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Learn more about Disodium EDTA
Perfuming, Tonic

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

Learn more about Geraniol
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Polydecene is an emollient. It creates a non-occlusive film on the skin that offers extra protection for your skin barrier.

The texture of Hydrogenated Polydecene ranges from light and silky to rich.

Hydrogenated Polydecene is the end compound of controlled hydrogenation of Polydecene.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Polydecene
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

You can find hydrolyzed silk in both haircare and skincare products. According to a manufacturer, it can help improve skin and hair hydration.

This ingredient is created by adding acid or enzymes to 'hydrolyze' silk protein.

Due to the origins of this ingredient, it is not vegan. Silk is an animal product from silkworms.

Depending on the source, this ingredient can be considered cruelty-free. It is created from left-over cocoons of silkworms. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about where their hydrolyzed silk comes from.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Silk
Cleansing, Emulsifying

Isostearic acid is a saturated fatty acid. Its structure makes it a great surfactant.

Surfactants help decrease the surface tension between two liquids. This property also makes it an effective emulsifier. Emulsifiers help prevent waters and oils from separating in a product.

Isostearic Acid is created from oleic acid.

This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Isostearic Acid
Perfuming

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Learn more about Linalool
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient comes from the root of Paeonia albiflora, aka as Radix Paeoniae Alba or the Chinese peony. It has skin conditioning properties and is rich in antioxidant compounds.

Recent research shows Paeonia Albiflora root extract helps slow down glycation. Glycation is a process where sugars damage skin proteins and contribute to dullness/uneven skin tone.

In human studies, a lotion with 1% Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract led to lower melanin levels and fewer visible dark spots after two weeks of use. In vitro and ex vivo studies support its role in regulating the process of pigment production and reducing inflammation in skin cells.

Additionally, this ingredient has been shown to promote keratinocyte migration and proliferation in wound healing models.

Paeonia Albiflora root extract is water-soluble and has a low irritation profile for most skin types. Like other botanical extracts, patch testing is recommended for people who have known plant allergies or reactive skin.

Learn more about Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Masking, Perfuming

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Parfum

PEG-5 Glyceryl Stearate isn't fungal acne safe.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for PEG/PPG-17/4 Dimethyl Ether yet.

Preservative

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.

It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.

Skin Conditioning

Phytosteryl Macadamiate is an ester made by combining phytosterols (the plant version of cholesterol) with fatty acids from macadamia seed oil.

It's a botanical copycat of the cholesteryl esters found in your skin's surface lipids and mimics how your skin's own barrier lipids organize.

Research on phytosterols show they can help with skin barrier recovery and protect skin against UV-induced damage when combined with ceramides.

The fatty acid portion of this ingredient is mainly oleic acid and palmitoleic acid, two potential Malassezia triggers. Be sure to patch test if you're unsure.

Learn more about Phytosteryl Macadamiate

We don't have a description for Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract yet.

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.

Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.

Read about common types of Hyaluronic Acid here:

Learn more about Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Antioxidant, Preservative

Sodium metabisulfite is also known as Sodium Pyrosulfite. It is a preservative, antioxidant, and disinfectant.

As a preservative, it helps stabilize cosmetic formulas without affecting their color or scent.

We don't have a description for Sodium Metaphosphate yet.

Cleansing, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Stearic Acid
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Theanine is an amino acid found in plants and fungal species. It helps hydrate the skin as an emollient and humectant.

Both emollients and humectants help hydrate the skin. Emollients prevent moisture from escaping by creating a thin film on top of the skin. Humectants draw water from the air to your skin.

Fun fact: Theanine gives green tea its special umami flavor.

Learn more about Theanine
Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.

Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.

Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.

You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.

There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.

Learn more about Tocopherol
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.

One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.

Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.

Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
Humectant, Moisturising

Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.

In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.

Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.

Learn more about Trehalose
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum

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