What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingLavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
MaskingLeucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract
Skin ProtectingOlea Europaea Fruit Extract
BleachingSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSorbitol
HumectantUbiquinone
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAlcohol
AntimicrobialBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingGeraniol
PerfumingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sorbitol, Ubiquinone, Xanthan Gum, Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Geraniol
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingCitrus Limon Peel Extract
EmollientCymbopogon Citratus Extract
Skin ConditioningSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentArctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMentha Piperita Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialSalvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
CleansingSempervivum Tectorum Extract
Skin ConditioningZea Mays Oil
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingArginine
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningLauryl Lactate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSodium Cocoyl Isethionate
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingMalva Sylvestris Extract
AstringentPrimula Veris Extract
Skin ConditioningAlchemilla Vulgaris Extract
AstringentVeronica Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AstringentMelissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningAchillea Millefolium Extract
CleansingCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingSodium Cetearyl Sulfate
CleansingCI 75810
Cosmetic ColorantCaramel
Cosmetic ColorantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHypoxis Rooperi Rhizome Extract
Skin ConditioningCaesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativeHeptyl Glucoside
Tropolone
Skin ConditioningCI 77288
Cosmetic ColorantMethyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmollientIron Oxides
Ascorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventWater
Skin ConditioningAlcohol
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Juice
Skin ConditioningMalpighia Glabra Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningEmblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAdansonia Digitata Fruit Extract
EmollientMyrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Water
MaskingLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
AstringentMaltodextrin
AbsorbentThioctic Acid
AntioxidantUbiquinone
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Cymbopogon Citratus Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sempervivum Tectorum Extract, Zea Mays Oil, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Arginine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lauryl Lactate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Malva Sylvestris Extract, Primula Veris Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Veronica Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, CI 75810, Caramel, Xanthan Gum, Hypoxis Rooperi Rhizome Extract, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Lactic Acid, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Heptyl Glucoside, Tropolone, CI 77288, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Iron Oxides, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propanediol, Water, Alcohol, Parfum, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Juice, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Cocos Nucifera Water, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Maltodextrin, Thioctic Acid, Ubiquinone
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice comes from leaves of the aloe plant. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is best known for helping to soothe sunburns. It is also anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, antiseptic, and can help heal wounds.
Aloe is packed with good stuff including Vitamins A, C, and E. These vitamins are antioxidants, which help fight free-radicals and the damage they may cause. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice also contains sugars. These sugars come in the form of monosaccharides and polysaccharides, folic acid, and choline. These sugars are able to help bind moisture to skin.
It also contains minerals such as calcium, 12 anthraquinones, fatty acids, amino acids, and Vitamin B12.
Learn more about Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceAscorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilSalix Alba Bark Extract comes from the bark of the white willow tree. The official CosIng listing states this ingredient to have astringent, skin conditioning, soothing, and tonic properties.
Its star compound is salicin, a natural glucoside that is chemically related to salicylic acid. That's why you'll often see it marketed as a "natural BHA alternative" but that's a bit of a stretch.
Your skin can't convert salicin to salicylic acid because it needs specific enzymes that aren't present on the skin's surface. It won't behave like true salicylic acid, especially at the concentrations used in cosmetics.
However, this ingredient has its own perks. It contains flavonoids, polyphenols, and tannins that give it proven antioxidant and soothing properties.
An 8-week clinical study found a cream with 2% of this extract improved skin microcirculation, elasticity, and dark circles. This is most likely due to its role in increasing hyaluronic acid synthesis in fibroblasts and improved vascular integrity.
Another study found a topical serum with 0.5% salicin showed improvements in visible signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and texture.
Just be careful if you have a known aspirin/salicylate allergy and be sure to consult with a medical professional about using this ingredient if you do.
Fun fact: Willow Bark extract has been used for thousands of years and ancient civilizations used white willow to help treat pain and fevers.
Learn more about Salix Alba Bark ExtractStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateUbiquinone (Coenzyme Q10) is a molecule already found in our bodies. It is a potent antioxidant and skin-soothing ingredient.
Aging and environmental exposure diminishes our skin's natural ubiquinone levels. This is much like our natural collagen and elastin.
The good news is: studies show applying this ingredient topically replenishes ubiquinone levels in our skin. This also comes with a ton of skin benefits. These benefits include:
Ubiquinone is considered a large molecule and cannot be absorbed into the lower layers of skin. This is why it is believed to be such an effective antioxidant: it protects our skin in the upper layers and prevents damage in the deeper layers.
When used in sunscreen, ubiquinone is shown to increase ingredient stability, increase SPF factor, and add to infrared protection.
Fun fact: ubiquinone is fat-soluble.
Learn more about UbiquinoneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum