Shu Uemura Unlimited Block : Booster Hydrating Primer SPF 50+ PA+++ Versus CLIO Wake Up Primer Tone Up
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientOctocrylene
UV AbsorberButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberEthylhexyl Triazone
UV AbsorberBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantMethylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
UV FilterPropanediol
SolventIsopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDiisopropyl Sebacate
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientMica
Cosmetic ColorantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHomosalate
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycerin
HumectantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCaramel
Cosmetic ColorantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingTin Oxide
AbrasivePropylene Glycol
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAlumina
AbrasiveIsopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantZea Mays Kernel Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingSorbic Acid
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Alcohol Denat., Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, CI 77891, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Propanediol, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Silica, Cetearyl Alcohol, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Homosalate, Butylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Caramel, Carbomer, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Tin Oxide, Propylene Glycol, Adenosine, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Alumina, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Sorbitol, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, CI 17200, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Sorbic Acid, Citric Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialOctocrylene
UV AbsorberLauryl PEG-8 Dimethicone
Silica
AbrasiveCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButyloctyl Salicylate
Skin ConditioningPEG-10 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningTrimethylsiloxysilicate
EmollientMagnesium Sulfate
Aluminum Hydroxide
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingIsododecane
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Trimethoxycaprylylsilane
SmoothingPolyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
EmulsifyingIsopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantButylene Glycol
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAscorbic Acid Polypeptide
AntioxidantAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin ProtectingAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningCarnosine
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Zinc Oxide, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, CI 77891, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Octocrylene, Lauryl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Silica, Cyclohexasiloxane, Isopropyl Palmitate, Niacinamide, Caprylyl Methicone, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butyloctyl Salicylate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Magnesium Sulfate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Isododecane, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Trimethoxycaprylylsilane, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Carnosine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Parfum, CI 77492, CI 77491
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineAlcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCi 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Ethylhexyl Salicylate is an organic compound used to block UV rays. It primarily absorbs UVB rays but offers a small amount of UVA protection as well.
Commonly found in sunscreens, Ethylhexyl Salicylate is created from salicylic acid and 2-ethylhexanol. You might know salicylic acid as the effective acne fighter ingredient and BHA.
The ethylhexanol in this ingredient is a fatty alcohol and helps hydrate your skin, similar to oils. It is an emollient, which means it traps moisture into the skin.
According to manufacturers, Ethylhexyl Salicylate absorbs UV wavelength of 295-315 nm, with a peak absorption at 307-310 nm. UVA rays are linked to long term skin damage, such as hyperpigmentation. UVB rays emit more energy and are capable of damaging our DNA. UVB rays cause sunburn.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl SalicylateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and used as a surface treatment for pigment particles (like iron oxides or titanium dioxide).
It "wraps" these ingredients in a form of slippery jacket so they disperse more evenly in oils, glide better on skin, and stick longer without smudging.
The “triisostearate” part of this ingredient is an ester derived from isostearic acid, a long-chain fatty acid. Malassezia species are lipid-dependent so they rely on external fats to survive. This is why ingredient is flagged for being potentially fungal-acne unsafe.
Learn more about Isopropyl Titanium TriisostearateOctocrylene protects skin from sun damage. It absorbs UV-B with peak absorption of 304 nm. It is a common sunscreen ingredient and often paired with avobenzone, a UVA filter. This is because octocrylene stabilizes other sunscreen ingredients by protecting them from degradation when exposed to sunlight. Octocrylene is a photostable ingredient and loses about 10% of SPF in 95 minutes.
Octocrylene also acts as an emollient, meaning it helps skin retain moisture and softens skin. It is oil-soluble and hydrophobic, enhancing water-resistant properties in a product.
Those who are using ketoprofen, a topical anti-inflammatory drug, may experience an allergic reaction when using octocrylene. It is best to speak with a healthcare professional about using sunscreens with octocrylene.
The EU allows a maximum of these concentrations:
Learn more about OctocryleneSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.
It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water