What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Germ Oil
EmollientEthylhexanol
PerfumingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientGlyceryl Dibehenate
EmollientPolysilicone-11
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-75 Stearate
SurfactantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTribehenin
EmollientSteareth-20
CleansingAlcohol
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantCeteth-20
CleansingEctoin
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientPolyacrylamide
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingOcimum Basilicum Meristem Cell Culture
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Geranylgeranylisopropanol
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientChlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialLaureth-7
EmulsifyingTriethanolamine
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingSodium Benzoate
MaskingBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientCyclotetrapeptide-24 Aminocyclohexane Carboxylate
AntioxidantChrysin
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Oligopeptide
CleansingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantBee Venom
AstringentWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Ethylhexanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Polysilicone-11, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Tribehenin, Steareth-20, Alcohol, Glyceryl Behenate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ceteth-20, Ectoin, Lecithin, Polyacrylamide, Xanthan Gum, Ocimum Basilicum Meristem Cell Culture, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Disodium EDTA, Geranylgeranylisopropanol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Laureth-7, Triethanolamine, Citric Acid, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Hydroxycitronellal, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Citronellol, Sodium Benzoate, Beta-Carotene, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Cyclotetrapeptide-24 Aminocyclohexane Carboxylate, Chrysin, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Bee Venom
Water
Skin ConditioningIsoamyl Laurate
EmollientPlacental Protein
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantOryza Sativa Bran/Germ Oil
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Dibehenate
EmollientAdipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-75 Stearate
SurfactantMica
Cosmetic ColorantIsoamyl Cocoate
Tribehenin
EmollientAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingPropylene Glycol
HumectantCeteth-20
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPolyacrylamide
Capsicum Annuum Fruit Meristem Cell
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Isopropyl Alcohol
SolventHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialLaureth-7
EmulsifyingTriethanolamine
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Succinate
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningColloidal Gold
AntimicrobialAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantBee Venom
AstringentCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingWater, Isoamyl Laurate, Placental Protein, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Oryza Sativa Bran/Germ Oil, Squalane, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, Mica, Isoamyl Cocoate, Tribehenin, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Parfum, Propylene Glycol, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Glyceryl Behenate, Xanthan Gum, Polyacrylamide, Capsicum Annuum Fruit Meristem Cell, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Disodium EDTA, Isopropyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Chlorphenesin, Laureth-7, Triethanolamine, Citric Acid, Sodium Succinate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Beta-Carotene, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Colloidal Gold, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Bee Venom, CI 77891, CI 77492, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Citronellol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is a fragrance. It can be synthetically created or naturally occurring.
The scent of Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is described as "flowery" but can also be "woody".
Naturally occurring Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone may be found in Saccharomyces cerevisiae, or the yeast used to make wine and bread.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Alpha-Isomethyl IononeAscorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a version of ascorbic acid, or Vitamin C.
This ingredient has many benefits including reducing wrinkles, skin soothing, dark spot fading, and fighting against free radicals.
It helps with dark spot fading by interfering with the process of skin darkening, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation. Like other forms of vitamin C, this ingredient encourages the skin to create more collagen.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
One study found Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to degrade in sunlight, but is stabilized when combined with acetyl zingerone.
Learn more about Ascorbyl TetraisopalmitateBee venom comes from bees (of course!).
There are many claims about bee venom being anti-aging. It is often called "natural botox". This is because it causes inflammation and tightening when applied to the skin. However, further studies are needed to look into the benefits of this ingredient.
Bee venom contains peptides, amino acids, and enzymes. It's main peptide is called melittin. Bee venom and its components are being studied for their antiviral and anti-inflammatory properties.
While cosmetics usually do not contain enough bee venom to cause an allergic reaction (unless you have an extreme allergy), we recommend you speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
Being cruelty-free means a brand does not experiment on animals.
If you're worried about the well-being of the bees, we recommend looking more into the company of the product.
Since bee venom is a product from bees, it is not considered vegan. However, there is much debate about this and many brands claim their bee products to be vegan.
Here at SkinSort, we are asking everyone to be kind to bees. They are important for many ecosystems and are endangered.
Learn more about Bee VenomBeta-Carotene is a fat-soluble carotenoid pigment. It is the thing responsible for giving carrots, sweet potatoes, apricots, and other orange-yellow produce their color.
It is a potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals (mainly reactive oxygen species) that come at your skin from both the environment and internal processes.
When applied topically, beta-carotene accumulates in your outermost layer of skin and acts as a first-line defense against photo-oxidative stress.
Research has established that carotenoids like beta-carotene boosts your skin's innate resistance against UVB induced erythema. Please know this does not mean beta-carotene can replace your sunscreen.
Newer studies show it can also help inhibit molecular markers of oxidative stress like MMP-1 and MMP-9, enzymes that break down collagen.
In some cases, it can be used as a cosmetic colorant as well (INCI name: CI 40800).
Beta-carotene pairs well with other antioxidants like Vitamin E and Vitamin C for a synergistic effect.
Learn more about Beta-CaroteneThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterC13-14 Isoparaffin is a synthetic emollient, solvent, and thickening agent. It helps soften skin and improves spreadability without leaving a greasy residue.
This ingredient has been found to be non-sensitizing and safe for use in cosmetics.
Two things floating around online that cause fear-mongering:
There's one scary-sounding study related to kidney tumors in male rats; this depends on a protein called alpha-2u-globulin that binds the ingredient and clogs up kidney cells. Female rats barely make this protein, and humans don't make it at all so this effect cannot happen to us. Regulatory bodies have states this rat-only pathway shouldn't be used to judge human risk.
The other thing you'll see is 1,4-dioxane being a trace byproduct that can form during manufacturing of petroleum-derived ingredients. This is a real, but heavily managed/monitored issue. This byproduct is removed through purification steps before the ingredients goes into the formula. Regulatory bodies also actively monitor residual levels for safety.
One last thing to note: this ingredient is a pure hydrocarbon with no fatty-acid or ester chains for Malassezia to feed on, so it's considered fungal acne safe.
Learn more about C13-14 IsoparaffinCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholThis ingredient is a surfactant and emulsifier. It is used to mix water and oil, stabilize emulsions, and aid in cleansing.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract comes from the root commonly known as carrot (the orange kind we eat!).
This extract contains beta-carotene, a pigment responsible for giving plants the orange color. Beta-carotene is a potent antioxidant. Antioxidants may help reduce the signs of aging.
Beta-carotene is the reason we turn orange if we eat too many carrots.
It should be noted coming into contact with the leaves of wild carrots can cause skin irritation. The sap causes phytophotodermatitis, or sensitivity exposed to sunlight.
This ingredient is created using the edible parts of the carrot.
Learn more about Daucus Carota Sativa Root ExtractDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil is the oil obtained from the seed of the edible carrot. The oil is created by steaming and distilling the seeds of the plant.
Carrot Seed Oil has hydrating, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.
As an emollient, carrot seed oil creates a thin film on the skin. This film prevents moisture from escaping, keeping your skin hydrated. Carrot seed oil has a soothing effect and can help alleviate inflammation.
As an antioxidant, carrot seed oil may help reduce the signs of aging. Antioxidants are able to neutralize free-radical molecules, or molecules that can damage our skin's cells and DNA.
Emerging studies show the alpha-pinene and carotol content give carrots antibacterial and antifungal properties. However, this is dependent on the amount of each compound. More studies are needed.
Carrot Seed Oil is not carrot oil. Carrot oil is created by mixing parts of the carrot in a carrier oil, such as coconut oil.
Learn more about Daucus Carota Sativa Seed OilDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Behenate is an emollient and emulsifier.
It has a lipophilic-hydrophilic structure that lets it sit at the oil-water interface to keep emulsions stable while leaving skin feeling soft and smooth.
In pressed powder cosmetics, it double as a compacting agent.
This ingredient can be synthetically created or plant-derived. Safety-wise, it has a solid track record.
One thing to flag for fungal acne: since this ingredient is the monoester of behenic acid (C22), it falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Glyceryl BehenateGlyceryl Dibehenate isn't fungal acne safe.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHydroxycitronellal is a fragrance created from citronellal. The smell of hydroxycitronellal is often described as "citrus-like" or "melon-like".
Hydroxycitronellal is a known EU allergen and may cause irritation when applied to the skin.
Laureth-7 is created by the ethoxylation of lauryl alcohol using ethylene oxide. Lauryl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with hydrating properties.
This ingredient is an emulsifier and cleansing ingredient. As an emulsifier, it is used to prevent ingredients from separating. It also helps cleanse the skin by gathering dirt, oil, and pollutants to be rinsed away.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPEG-75 Stearate isn't fungal acne safe.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyacrylamide is a synthetic polymer. It is used to stabilize products and bind ingredients. When hydrated, Polyacrylamide forms a soft gel.
Polyacrylamide is low-toxicity. If source properly, it is deemed safe to use in cosmetics.
It should be noted the precursor to Polyacrylamide is acrylamide. Acrylamide is a carcinogen. Most reputable sources of Polyacrylamide will screen for residual acrylamide to make sure the count is in a safe range. Acrylamide is not able to be absorbed through the skin.
We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about PolyacrylamidePotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSteareth-20 is an emulsifier and solubilizer. It is created from stearyl alcohol with ~20 units of ethylene oxide to give it a strong preference for water.
As an emulsifier, it helps oil-in-water emulsions like lotions, creams, and cleansers stay stable. It also solubilizes small amounts of oil-loving ingredients (like fragrance) into water-based formulas.
You'll likely find this ingredient with steareth-2 (it's oil-loving sister) where the two work together to give products a cushiony feel.
Typical use levels sit at around 1-5% and this ingredient has been found to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel.
Learn more about Steareth-20Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about TribeheninTriethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.
As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.
PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.
If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.
Learn more about TriethanolamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum