What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventAlcohol
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTriethyl Citrate
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialSodium Citrate
BufferingDimethicone
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Citronellol
PerfumingInga Edulis Leaf Extract
AntioxidantEuterpe Oleracea Seed Extract
AntioxidantSilica
AbrasiveTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingCasearia Sylvestris Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Carbonate
BufferingGeraniol
PerfumingConobea Scoparioides Leaf Oil
MaskingMalonic Acid
BufferingVanillin
MaskingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Chloride
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Ascorbic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Propanediol, Alcohol, Citric Acid, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Tocopherol, Parfum, Panthenol, Sodium Hydroxide, Triethyl Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Citronellol, Inga Edulis Leaf Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Seed Extract, Silica, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Casearia Sylvestris Leaf Extract, Sodium Carbonate, Geraniol, Conobea Scoparioides Leaf Oil, Malonic Acid, Vanillin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPEG-8
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantDimethiconol
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasiveXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzophenone-4
UV AbsorberBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningPtfe
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientCeramide AP
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientPlantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialDisodium EDTA
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingParfum
MaskingSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPhysalis Pubescens Fruit Juice
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingAlcohol
AntimicrobialTocopherol
AntioxidantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSilica
AbrasiveHydrolyzed Soy Flour
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Phosphate
BufferingBHT
AntioxidantSodium Chloride
MaskingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCoffea Arabica Seed Extract
MaskingPongamia Pinnata Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningPunica Granatum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantBacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLinalool
PerfumingSodium Benzoate
MaskingAngelica Archangelica Root Extract
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Amara Peel Extract
MaskingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningTrisodium EDTA
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentAcetic Acid
BufferingPotassium Chloride
Potassium Phosphate
BufferingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantLactic Acid
BufferingSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningMicrococcus Lysate
Skin ConditioningSorbic Acid
PreservativeRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantPropanediol
Solvent3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentSaccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 61570
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Dimethicone, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG-8, Alcohol Denat., Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethiconol, Polyethylene, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Benzophenone-4, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Ptfe, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Parfum, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Adenosine, Physalis Pubescens Fruit Juice, Lecithin, Polysorbate 60, Alcohol, Tocopherol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Silica, Hydrolyzed Soy Flour, Citric Acid, Sodium Phosphate, BHT, Sodium Chloride, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Linalool, Sodium Benzoate, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Extract, Maltodextrin, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Trisodium EDTA, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Acetic Acid, Potassium Chloride, Potassium Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sclerotium Gum, Plankton Extract, Micrococcus Lysate, Sorbic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, CI 77891, Mica, Propanediol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract, CI 14700, CI 61570
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
You might know this ingredient as Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a more stable version of ascorbic acid.
Like other types of vitamin C, this ingredient has many benefits including reducing wrinkles, skin soothing, dark spot fading, and fighting against free radicals.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid interferes with the process of skin darkening, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation. It also encourages the skin to produce more collagen.
Once applied, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is converted to Vitamin C deeper in the skin's layers. This process is slow but makes this ingredient more tolerable for skin.
The optimum pH range for this ingredient is 4 - 5.5
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidThis ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholAscorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water