What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Stearic Acid
CleansingBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientCaprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Dimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSqualane
EmollientSodium PCA
HumectantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHexapeptide-48 Hcl
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin ConditioningMedicago Sativa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Extract
Skin ConditioningSteareth-20
CleansingN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningChrysin
Skin ConditioningDiamond Powder
AbrasiveCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingCeteareth-20
CleansingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAlaria Esculenta Extract
Skin ProtectingDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingChlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Citrate
BufferingBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientWater, Glycerin, Isopropyl Isostearate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Stearic Acid, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Propanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Hexapeptide-48 Hcl, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Medicago Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Glycine Soja Extract, Steareth-20, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Chrysin, Diamond Powder, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Panthenol, Caffeine, Beeswax, Ceteareth-20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Citric Acid, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Citrate, Biotin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Butylene Glycol
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialLauroyl Lysine
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingIsohexadecane
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningZea Mays Oil
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantPvm/Ma Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyacrylamide
C13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientLaureth-7
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingSorbitan Tristearate
EmulsifyingRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantTricaprylin
PerfumingPolymethyl Methacrylate
Panthenol
Skin ConditioningTriethanolamine
BufferingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientDipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Pea Protein
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Palmitic Acid
EmollientGlycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingDisodium Cocoamphodiacetate
CleansingSodium Dextran Sulfate
Gel FormingValine
MaskingGlycine
BufferingWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Cetearyl Alcohol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Lauroyl Lysine, PEG-40 Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Isohexadecane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Zea Mays Oil, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Stearic Acid, Sorbitan Tristearate, Retinyl Palmitate, BHT, Tricaprylin, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Panthenol, Triethanolamine, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Disodium EDTA, Palmitic Acid, Glycine Soja Protein, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Valine, Glycine
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientβs final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a lab-made peptide with anti-inflammatory and skin-repairing benefits. It's made up of four amino acids (glycine, glutamine, proline, and arginine) and palmitic acid (which helps it penetrate skin more effectively).
This ingredient helps reduce inflammation by limiting the production of interleukin-6 (IL-6), a chemical that triggers inflammatory responses, particularly after UV exposure.
Less inflammation = slower collagen breakdown and a longer-lasting, youthful appearance.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 also stimulates collagen production and supports a healthier skin barrier.
Over time, this can improve skin firmness, hydration, and reduce the appearance of fine lines. Itβs commonly paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
This ingredient has been shown to be effective and safe in cosmetic use and you'll typically find it in small amounts (less than 0.01%).
Due to its palmitic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is also known as pal-GHK. It is made up of 3 amino acids and palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.
This peptide is as a signal peptide, meaning it tells the skin to produce more collagen. Collagen is the key protein that helps form the skin's structure and keep it plump, firm, and hydrated.
By boosting collagen production, this ingredient supports a stronger skin barrier and helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
You'll most likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex. While results from in-house testing should be viewed cautiously, this peptide duo is among the most studied and widely used in modern skincare.
Due to its palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water