What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-26
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
SolventMethylpropanediol
SolventPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTriethanolamine
BufferingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTrehalose
HumectantBetaine
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialLecithin
EmollientLeontopodium Alpinum Extract
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantBetula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantPseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSea Water
HumectantUlmus Campestris Bark Extract
AstringentGlycine Max Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningBacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningAspergillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Methylpropanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Trehalose, Betaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Parfum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Alcohol, Lecithin, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Butylene Glycol, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sea Water, Ulmus Campestris Bark Extract, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment
Water
Skin ConditioningAlgae Extract
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientHypnea Musciformis Extract
Skin ProtectingButylene Glycol
HumectantSucrose
HumectantPropanediol
SolventSesamum Indicum Seed Oil
EmollientMedicago Sativa Seed Powder
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seedcake
AbrasivePrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
AbrasiveEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
PerfumingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningCalcium Gluconate
HumectantMagnesium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Succinate
AntioxidantNiacin
SmoothingSesamum Indicum Seed Powder
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract
CleansingAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningMaris Sal
Skin ConditioningCodium Tomentosum Extract
Skin ProtectingGelidiella Acerosa Extract
Skin ProtectingLaminaria Saccharina Extract
Skin ProtectingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningAlcaligenes Polysaccharides
EmollientDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantLaminaria Digitata Extract
Skin ProtectingPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmaria Palmata Extract
Skin ProtectingPEG-8
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium PCA
HumectantUrea
BufferingPPG-5-Ceteth-20
EmulsifyingJojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningAspergillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTrehalose
HumectantLaureth-3
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Yeast Protein
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTourmaline
Glycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingTriacetin
AntimicrobialAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCalcium Chloride
AstringentLecithin
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingDisodium EDTA
Potassium Sorbate
PreservativeSorbic Acid
PreservativeChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Algae Extract, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Butylene Glycol, Sucrose, Propanediol, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Maris Sal, Codium Tomentosum Extract, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Caffeine, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycereth-26, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Plankton Extract, Palmaria Palmata Extract, PEG-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium PCA, Urea, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Yeast Extract, Aspergillus Ferment, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Trehalose, Laureth-3, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylyl Glycol, Tourmaline, Glycine Soja Protein, Triacetin, Alcohol Denat., Sodium Hydroxide, Calcium Chloride, Lecithin, BHT, Polyquaternium-51, Parfum, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Limonene, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aspergillus Ferment is created when Aspergillus fungi is fermented under controlled conditions. This is the same fungi used to make sake, miso, and soy sauce.
The fungi breaks down to produce a mix of enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and bioactive compounds during fermentation.
One such compound is kojic acid; kojic acid is widely considered a gentler alternative to hydroquinone. You should know: the amount of kojic acid in Aspergillus Ferment will vary depending on species used and how the fermentation was done.
There's an in-vitro study from 2019 found that ceramide-like compounds from Aspergillus luchuensis helped skin cells turn on the genes related to barrier repair and moisture retention. Just keep in mind this was tested on cells in a lab and not on actual people's faces.
If you're someone who deals with fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis), you might want to instinctively want to skip this ingredient.
That's understandable since it is derived from a fungus. It's worth knowing that Aspergillus and Malassezia are completely different organisms and there's no research suggesting that Aspergillus Ferment feeds or worsens malassezia overgrowth on the skin.
However, if you're actively managing fungal acne, being cautious with any new ingredient is reasonable.
Learn more about Aspergillus FermentButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycereth-26 is a synthetic ingredient and polyethylene glycol ether of Glycerin. Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin and helps keep your skin moisturized.
It is a humectant and helps add texture to products. It can make your product thicker.
As a humectant, it helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps your skin stay hydrated.
Learn more about Glycereth-26Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcelluloseLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTrehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.
As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.
In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.
Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.
Learn more about TrehaloseWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum