Augustinus Bader The Light Cream Versus Dr. Diamond's Metacine HYDR/O Bioactive Hydrolipid Barrier Moisturizer
This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Cellulose and Squalane to balance excess oil and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMaris Aqua
HumectantSodium Acrylates Copolymer
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCellulose
AbsorbentMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentPropanediol
SolventGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantEthylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate
EmollientOryza Sativa Bran Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientLecithin
EmollientSodium Phytate
ChelatingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialHydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract
EmollientPorphyridium Cruentum Extract
Skin ConditioningPhragmites Communis Extract
Skin ConditioningPoria Cocos Extract
Skin ConditioningBackhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract
AstringentSodium Benzoate
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAlanyl Glutamine
HumectantArginine
MaskingOligopeptide-177
Phenylalanine
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSisymbrium Irio Seed Oil
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingEpigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Maris Aqua, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Propanediol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Squalane, Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Maltodextrin, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Phragmites Communis Extract, Poria Cocos Extract, Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Alanyl Glutamine, Arginine, Oligopeptide-177, Phenylalanine, Potassium Sorbate, Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil, Sodium Chloride, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
Water
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingFructooligosaccharides
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantC12-13 Alkyl Glyceryl Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide As
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningLinoleic Acid
CleansingLinolenic Acid
CleansingPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningAleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningPlukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
EmollientTriolein
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPolyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-3 Cocoate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCholesterol
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientOleic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingGlyceryl Dioleate
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying2,3-Butanediol
HumectantPCA
HumectantSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingSodium Phytate
ChelatingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBeta Vulgaris Root Extract
Skin ConditioningStearyl Alcohol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingWater, Octyldodecanol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Niacinamide, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Fructooligosaccharides, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, C12-13 Alkyl Glyceryl Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytosphingosine, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide EOP, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Phytosterols, Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Triolein, Phospholipids, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Tocopherol, Cholesterol, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Dioleate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, 2,3-Butanediol, PCA, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Stearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Phytate is the sodium salt of Phytic acid, a compound that plants store phosphorus in. It's the plant-derived alternative to ingredients like Disodium EDTA.
In skincare, this ingredient is a chelator that grabs onto trace metal ions like iron and copper that sneak into formulas through water/raw materials.
Those metals speed up oxidation so binding them keeps oils, fragrance, and actives from going off, stops color changes, and helps the preservative system work harder.
Survey data shows usage levels range from 0.0099%-0.5% in leave-on products, 0.025%-0.3% in rinse-off, and up to 0.05% in eye-area products. Suppliers typically recommend a range between 0.05-0.5%.
Learn more about Sodium PhytateSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum