What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantGlycereth-7 Triacetate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantMalpighia Glabra Fruit Juice
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantMyristyl Nicotinate
Skin ConditioningTamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide
Skin ConditioningOrobanche Rapum Extract
Skin ProtectingMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialXylitylglucoside
HumectantBacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningHydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Skin ConditioningAnhydroxylitol
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningXylitol
HumectantGlucose
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPropanediol
SolventMaltodextrin
AbsorbentRhizobian Gum
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBHT
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbic Acid, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Juice, Retinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Myristyl Nicotinate, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Orobanche Rapum Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Xylitylglucoside, Bacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Anhydroxylitol, Adenosine, Xylitol, Glucose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Maltodextrin, Rhizobian Gum, Mica, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, BHT, BHA, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, CI 77491, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantGlutathione
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSalicylic Acid
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHumulus Lupulus Extract
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Polyacrylate
Potassium Sorbate
PreservativeCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingSorbitol
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeIsohexadecane
EmollientPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAmylopectin
Dextrin
AbsorbentPolydextrose
HumectantDisodium Cocoamphodiacetate
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingGold
Cosmetic ColorantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingEthyl Ferulate
AntioxidantSodium Phosphate
BufferingWater, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Glycerin, Ascorbic Acid, Glutathione, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Retinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Salicylic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Humulus Lupulus Extract, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Potassium Sorbate, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hexylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Oleate, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Amylopectin, Dextrin, Polydextrose, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Disodium Phosphate, Gold, Polysorbate 60, Ethyl Ferulate, Sodium Phosphate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum