What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeJojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium PCA
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Squalene
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPCA
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantSerine
MaskingAlanine
MaskingPhytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingGlutamic Acid
HumectantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialGlycine Hcl
BufferingThreonine
Arginine
MaskingPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantProline
Skin ConditioningTrisodium EDTA
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Propanediol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Betaine, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Squalene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Lactate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, PCA, Citric Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Serine, Alanine, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glycine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Proline, Trisodium EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantSodium Cocoyl Isethionate
CleansingGlycol Distearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSodium Cocoyl Glycinate
CleansingArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientPropanediol
SolventArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientInulin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantSodium Phytate
Glycine Soja Oil
EmollientCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientFructose
HumectantGlycolipids
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentTrehalose
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCyclodextrin
AbsorbentHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantLactic Acid
BufferingAnanas Sativus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingBrassica Alba Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialOligopeptide-195
Oligopeptide-196
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-197
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-198
Oligopeptide-199
Oligopeptide-6
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Glycol Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Inulin, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Phospholipids, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Phytate, Glycine Soja Oil, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Fructose, Glycolipids, Glycine Soja Sterols, Maltodextrin, Trehalose, Sodium Citrate, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Adenosine, Cyclodextrin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Lactic Acid, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Arginine, Brassica Alba Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Oligopeptide-195, Oligopeptide-196, Oligopeptide-197, Oligopeptide-198, Oligopeptide-199, Oligopeptide-6
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum