What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingIsohexadecane
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantPolyacrylamide
Mannitol
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Dipeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantTripeptide-3
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDimethiconol
EmollientLaureth-7
EmulsifyingPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Isohexadecane, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Isopropyl Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylamide, Mannitol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tripeptide-3, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Stearyl Alcohol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Cetyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethiconol, Laureth-7, PEG-100 Stearate, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Titanium Dioxide
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantMethyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingBetaine
HumectantHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientMannitol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningAllium Cepa Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
CleansingTocopherol
AntioxidantLauric Acid
CleansingAcetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAcetyl Heptapeptide-4
HumectantHydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingCholesterol
EmollientAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Trimethicone, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Betaine, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Mannitol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Palmitic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Phytosterols, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Myristic Acid, Tocopherol, Lauric Acid, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Cholesterol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hydroxide, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8This synthetic peptide is a signal peptide, meaning it tells your skin to create more collagen and elastin.
According to a manufacturer, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 helps improve skin elasticity and firmness.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinMannitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a humectant and moisturizes the skin. In vitro (not tested on a living organism), mannitol displays antioxidant properties.
When found in aqueous solutions, mannitol tends to become acidic. This is because it loses a hydrogen ion. This is why mannitol can often be found with pH adjusting ingredients, such as sodium bicarbonate.
Fun fact: Mannitol can be found in foods as a sweetener. It can be naturally found in mushrooms, algae, fruits, and veggies.
Learn more about MannitolNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water