What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialDimethicone
EmollientHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAdenosine
Skin ConditioningYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingSalicyloyl Phytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingLimonene
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Octyldodecanol
EmollientCitronellol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, Yeast Extract, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Octyldodecanol, Citronellol, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialNiacinamide
SmoothingIsopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantGuanosine
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePhenylethyl Resorcinol
AntioxidantStearic Acid
CleansingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingSilica Silylate
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingLimonene
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTin Oxide
AbrasiveBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingIsohexadecane
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingBoron Nitride
AbsorbentFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingMyristic Acid
CleansingGeraniol
PerfumingOctocrylene
UV AbsorberButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingOctyldodecanol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientOctyldodecyl Xyloside
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingCitronellol
PerfumingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientParfum
MaskingWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Alcohol, Niacinamide, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Pentylene Glycol, CI 77891, Guanosine, Mica, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Stearic Acid, Adenosine, Caffeine, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Silica Silylate, Palmitic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Tin Oxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Boron Nitride, Ferulic Acid, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Myristic Acid, Geraniol, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Octyldodecanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Octyldodecyl Xyloside, Citric Acid, Citronellol, Glyceryl Stearate, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a polymer made from ammonium salts. It works as a thickener, emulsifier, and texture enhancer that gives gel-creams a silky, lightweight feel.
This ingredient is versatile and low-maintenance so manufacturers love working with it.
Typical usage levels in cosmetics are usually low and in the range of 0.015 - 2.3%.
Learn more about Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum