What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingDimethiconol
EmollientRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientIsohexadecane
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingArginine
MaskingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientLunaria Annua Seed Oil
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingWater, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Beeswax, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Caprylate, C14-22 Alcohols, Dimethiconol, Retinyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Isohexadecane, Cetearyl Glucoside, Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Polysorbate 80, Parfum, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine Soja Oil, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lunaria Annua Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Linalool, Citronellol
Water
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
AstringentGlycerin
HumectantUrea
BufferingGlucose
HumectantGuanidine Hcl
BufferingTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentGlyceryl Dilaurate
EmollientTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantDimethicone
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantOrmenis Multicaulis Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPantothenic Acid
Skin ConditioningAcer Saccharum Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantPEG-8/Smdi Copolymer
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSoy Isoflavones
Skin ConditioningEthylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride
AntioxidantHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPvp
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTriethanolamine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientMethylglucoside Phosphate
Skin ConditioningCopper Lysinate/Prolinate
Skin ConditioningWater, Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Urea, Glucose, Guanidine Hcl, Tripeptide-1, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Glyceryl Dilaurate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Superoxide Dismutase, Ormenis Multicaulis Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Phospholipids, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pantothenic Acid, Acer Saccharum Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, PEG-8/Smdi Copolymer, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Soy Isoflavones, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Pvp, Panthenol, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is a fatty acid ester.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water