What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingSodium Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientLauryl Glucoside
CleansingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Oleate
EmollientGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningMauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingBHA
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientAcetyl Glutamine
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-11
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantHexapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantAdansonia Digitata Oil
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantUbiquinone
AntioxidantWater, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Sodium Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Lauryl Glucoside, Phenoxyethanol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Alcohol, Glyceryl Oleate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Allantoin, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, BHA, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Hexapeptide-11, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Adansonia Digitata Oil, Caffeine, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Ubiquinone
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantAcetamidoethoxyethanol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientButter
Skin ConditioningOpuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingLecithin
EmollientMethylpropanediol
SolventC15-19 Alkane
SolventHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Acrylates Copolymer
PEG-150 Distearate
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTriethanolamine
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Acetamidoethoxyethanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Butter, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Niacinamide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Lecithin, Methylpropanediol, C15-19 Alkane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-150 Distearate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Triethanolamine, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTALecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water