What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientTriticum Vulgare Germ Oil
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBHT
AntioxidantLactic Acid
BufferingParfum
MaskingWater, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopropyl Myristate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Propylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Cyclopentasiloxane, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, BHT, Lactic Acid, Parfum
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientIsostearyl Neopentanoate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingBrassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantCeteth-10 Phosphate
CleansingDicetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientLinoleic Acid
CleansingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlucosamine Hcl
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentPEG-8
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPhytic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingPisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningBambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract
HumectantCitrus Nobilis Peel Oil
MaskingYeast Polysaccharides
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Sodium Hyaluronate
HumectantBenzoic Acid
MaskingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantPyruvic Acid
MaskingTremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantVitis Vinifera Seed Extract
AntimicrobialAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, PEG-100 Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Limonene, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Stearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tocopherol, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Panthenol, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucosamine Hcl, Hexylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, PEG-8, Butylene Glycol, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Pisum Sativum Extract, Allantoin, Retinyl Palmitate, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Yeast Polysaccharides, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzoic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Pyruvic Acid, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum