What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientMethyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPCA Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPanax Ginseng Root Extract
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPoncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Olivate
Dimethiconol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPEG-150 Distearate
EmulsifyingC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientAngelica Acutiloba Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAsparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPolygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAcanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Multiflorum Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantCimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract
AntimicrobialDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningLithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Skin ConditioningTrifolium Pratense Leaf Extract
AntioxidantZiziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAtractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract
Skin ConditioningCornus Officinalis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingPaeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingPlantago Asiatica Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Persica Kernel Extract
MoisturisingScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentThymus Vulgaris Extract
PerfumingVelvet Extract
HumectantMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientTriethylhexanoin
MaskingPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningStearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingTrisodium EDTA
Stearic Acid
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingGinsenosides
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methyl Trimethicone, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, PCA Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Dimethiconol, Sorbitan Olivate, PEG-150 Distearate, C14-22 Alcohols, Squalane, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract, Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Trifolium Pratense Leaf Extract, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Plantago Asiatica Extract, Prunus Persica Kernel Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Velvet Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Triethylhexanoin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Xanthan Gum, Arachidyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Trisodium EDTA, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Tromethamine, Ginsenosides, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientNeopentyl Glycol Dicaprate
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
Peat Extract 0.5%
Skin ConditioningEuphrasia Officinalis Extract
AntimicrobialGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingAchillea Millefolium Flower Extract
AntioxidantAesculus Hippocastanum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningRhodiola Rosea Root Extract
EmollientVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningEquisetum Arvense Leaf Extract
AstringentAlchemilla Vulgaris Leaf Extract
AntioxidantViola Tricolor Extract
EmollientRosa Damascena Flower Extract
MaskingSpiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningAlthaea Officinalis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingNepeta Cataria Extract
TonicRubus Idaeus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningBaptisia Tinctoria Root Extract
Skin ConditioningStellaria Media Extract
Skin ConditioningAminobutyric Acid
Jojoba Esters
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingMica
Cosmetic ColorantTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantTrisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingCitronellol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, C14-22 Alcohols, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Panthenol, PEG-100 Stearate, Peat Extract 0.5%, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Leaf Extract, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Equisetum Arvense Leaf Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Viola Tricolor Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Nepeta Cataria Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Baptisia Tinctoria Root Extract, Stellaria Media Extract, Aminobutyric Acid, Jojoba Esters, Dimethicone, Sorbitan Stearate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, CI 77491, Trisodium EDTA, Parfum, Citronellol, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterC14-22 Alcohols is made up of synthetic fatty alcohols. More specifically, these fatty alcohols contain 14 to 22 carbons in the alkyl chain.
Its main purpose is to stabilize products. As an emulsifier, it helps prevent waters and oils from separating.
Due to this ingredient having a similar composition to cetearyl alcohol, this ingredient may not be malassezia folliculitis safe. However, the risk is low and has been only shown by a single study, so SkinSort does not currently flag C14-22 Alcohols as a fungal acne trigger.
Learn more about C14-22 AlcoholsCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
This extract comes from Purslane, a succulent. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and hydrating properties.
Purslane is very nutritious. It contains omega-3 fatty acids, NMFs, many vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. The vitamins found in purslane include: Vitamin C, Vitamin A, and Vitamin E.
Fun fact: Purslane is a succulent with an extensive habitat. It is used in traditional Korean medicine to treat irritated skin.
Nowadays, purslane is becoming a superfood due to its highly nutritious content.
Learn more about Portulaca Oleracea ExtractTrisodium EDTA is one of those quietly essential helper ingredients that most people have never heard of. You'll most likely spot it near the end of ingredient lists in almost every category of skincare.
So what does it actually do?
Its main job is chelation; this is a fancy word to say it grabs onto metal ions and neutralizes them. This is because even purified water in cosmetics contains trace amounts of metals that can cause big problems in a formula.
These trace metals can break down actives faster, cause discoloration, promote rancidity in oils, and make preservatives less effective. Trisodium EDTA binds to these metals and takes them out of the equation so your products can stay stable and effective for longer.
There's also an added bonus: by neutralizing the metals ions that bacteria need to thrive, this ingredient also acts as a preservative booster.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetic formulations. It is not considered an irritant, sensitizer, and is barely absorbed through the skin.
Learn more about Trisodium EDTATromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.
As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.
Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.
1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water