What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingCaprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientPolyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningHaematococcus Pluvialis Oil
AntioxidantGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantXylitylglucoside
HumectantAnhydroxylitol
HumectantCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningXylitol
HumectantBisabolol
AntioxidantTranexamic Acid
AstringentGlutathione
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin ProtectingMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientGlucose
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantBiota Orientalis Leaf Extract
HumectantZanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantEclipta Prostrata Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
AntioxidantCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAgar
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Water, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Astaxanthin, Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil, Gluconolactone, Glyceryl Glucoside, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Adenosine, Xylitol, Bisabolol, Tranexamic Acid, Glutathione, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Glucose, Tocopherol, Biota Orientalis Leaf Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Ubiquinone, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Carbomer, Arginine, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Agar, Disodium EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Polydecene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingNicotinamide Mononucleotide
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPropanediol
SolventAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Arginine
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingZea Mays Kernel Extract
Disodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Malt Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract
Skin ProtectingSolanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantOenothera Biennis Flower Extract
AstringentPinus Palustris Leaf Extract
TonicPueraria Lobata Root Extract
HumectantUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantBellis Perennis Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningFructan
Skin ConditioningPantothenic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningXylose
HumectantAnemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Arginine, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Hydrolyzed Malt Extract, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Dextrin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, Fructan, Pantothenic Acid, Glucose, Polyglutamic Acid, Xylose, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Tocopherol, Limonene, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Learn more about GlucoseGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water