What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantIsododecane
EmollientMethyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingNeopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate
EmollientMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Chloride
MaskingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientSodium DNA
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Disodium EDTA
CI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingEthoxydiglycol
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantOctyldodecanol
EmollientAsiaticoside
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingGlycolipids
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningC12-13 Alketh-9
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientOleic Acid
EmollientNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantBrassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningWater, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Butylene Glycol, Isododecane, Methyl Trimethicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Microcrystalline Wax, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, CI 77891, Panthenol, Trehalose, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium DNA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Allantoin, Adenosine, Aluminum Hydroxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium EDTA, CI 77491, CI 77492, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Ethoxydiglycol, Tocopherol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Octyldodecanol, Asiaticoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycolipids, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, C12-13 Alketh-9, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Stearic Acid, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Squalane, Oleic Acid, Nonapeptide-1, Dipeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Water
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientGlycereth-26
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantIsododecane
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycol Stearate Se
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantStearic Acid
CleansingDimethiconol
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingTranexamic Acid
AstringentBetaine
HumectantGlutathione
Panthenol
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin ProtectingButylene Glycol
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTrideceth-6
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Sodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantWater, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Beeswax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Dipropylene Glycol, Isododecane, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Stearyl Alcohol, Glycol Stearate Se, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Stearic Acid, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tranexamic Acid, Betaine, Glutathione, Panthenol, Parfum, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Butylene Glycol, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Trideceth-6, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ascorbic Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinThis ingredient is a synthetic ingredient with emollient and skin conditioner used to make skincare products feel more lightweight on the skin. It helps improve slip and spreadability without feeling greasy.
Because it is high molecular weight and lipophilic (oil loving), it remains on the surface of skin.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneIsododecane is a fragrance, emollient, and solvent.
As an emollient, it helps your skin stay soft and hydrated. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin.
Isododecane's role as a solvent makes it a great texture enhancer. It spreads smoothly on skin and does not leave a sticky feeling behind. Isododecane also helps prevent color transfer in makeup products.
Isododecane is not absorbed into skin.
The chemical name for this ingredient is 2,2,4,6,6-PENTAMETHYLHEPTANE.
Learn more about IsododecaneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water