What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMethyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmollientHamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water
AstringentPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGlycol
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientPropylheptyl Caprylate
EmollientArctium Lappa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningFomes Officinalis Extract
Skin ProtectingCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientOrbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientGlycoproteins
Skin ConditioningGlutamic Acid
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantValine
MaskingThreonine
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativeSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Citric Acid
BufferingParfum
MaskingCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water, Panthenol, Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Fomes Officinalis Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Glycoproteins, Glutamic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Valine, Threonine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Parfum, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantOleyl Alcohol
EmollientPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientDistarch Phosphate
AbsorbentTriheptanoin
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Ascorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantAvena Strigosa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningBacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingDextran
Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningEpigallocatechin Gallate
AntioxidantEpigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
AntioxidantGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHexyldecanol
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingLactic Acid
BufferingLecithin
EmollientLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
PerfumingLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningSalix Nigra Bark Extract
Skin ProtectingPinus Nigra Bud/Needle Extract
AntimicrobialSodium Gluceptate
Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTrifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Oleyl Alcohol, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Distarch Phosphate, Triheptanoin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Avena Strigosa Seed Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Dextran, Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hexyldecanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lactic Acid, Lecithin, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Pinus Nigra Bud/Needle Extract, Sodium Gluceptate, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerAscorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of āFRAGRANCEā or āPARFUMā according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum