What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDibutyl Adipate
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV FilterPhenethyl Benzoate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Triazone
UV AbsorberPolysilicone-15
UV FilterTerephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
UV AbsorberPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingPoly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingIsododecane
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPropanediol
SolventPolyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
EmulsifyingCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantIsopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylic Acid
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantBenzyl Glycol
SolventHydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPotassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningWater, Dibutyl Adipate, Dipropylene Glycol, CI 77891, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Phenethyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Polysilicone-15, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Tromethamine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Isododecane, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Aluminum Hydroxide, Hydroxyacetophenone, Panthenol, Stearic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, CI 77492, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Polyacrylic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, CI 77491, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Acetyl Glucosamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Madecassoside, Benzyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate
Centella Asiatica Extract 49%
CleansingWater
Skin ConditioningDibutyl Adipate
EmollientDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV FilterEthylhexyl Triazone
UV AbsorberGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingPolymethyl Methacrylate
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
UV FilterPolysilicone-15
UV Filter1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Sesquioleate
EmulsifyingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientDecyl Glucoside
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantGlucose
HumectantT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Centella Asiatica Extract 49%, Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Polysilicone-15, 1,2-Hexanediol, Beta-Glucan, Allantoin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Behenyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glucose, T-Butyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineAllantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinBehenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Learn more about Behenyl AlcoholCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolDibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.
You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.
This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.
In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.
Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.
Learn more about Dibutyl AdipateDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Learn more about Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl BenzoateDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl TriazoneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a texture enhancer and pH adjuster.
It is be used to thicken water-based products and create a gel-texture with a velvet feel.
One manufacturer claims this ingredient to have a pH range of 2-8 and to be biodegradable.
This ingredient is also known as Sepimax Zen.
Learn more about Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a plant-derived emulsifier whose only job is to keep the oily and watery parts of a formula blended so it doesn't separate into layers.
It's compatible with a wide-range of active ingredients and especially good at making emulsions survive heat/freeze cycles.
Typical use concentrations range from 2-3% and it works across a pH of 4.5-8.5.
This ingredient has been found safe to use in cosmetics and has a low irritation profile.
Because it's build on stearic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that falls within the range (C11-24) that Malassezia can feed on.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose DistearatePolysilicone-15 (trade name: Parsol SLX) is a silicone-based UVB filter that soaks up UVB light (~280-320nm) with a peak around 310nm.
It's a fairly modest sunscreen filter so formulators mostly use it as an SPF booster and "light stabilizer". This just means it helps keep other light-sensitive ingredients from breaking down in sunlight.
A 2007 study measured the in-vitro SPF of 18 filters and found Polysilicone-15 contributed an SPF of about 3.64 at its maximum legal concentration (though worth noting its maker points out that in-vitro tests tend to underestimate its real performance because of its large polymeric structure).
Usage levels vary; it's approved up to 10% as a UV filter in the EU, China, Japan, Australia, ASEAN, and Mercosur countries. In the US, it's only permitted up to 1% as a light stabilizer because the FDA hasn't reviewed it as a sunscreen active.
Typical use levels range from 1-3%.
The EU's scientific committee concluded that this ingredient is safe for use as a UV absorber up to 10%, and tests came back negative for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.
There is one case of allergic lip inflammation from a lip balm with this ingredient, though this is rare.
Learn more about Polysilicone-15Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum