Paula's Choice Defense Nightly Reconditioning Moisturizer Versus Drunk Elephant Silkamino Mega-Moisturizing Masker
This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Ceramide Ng to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingIsoamyl Laurate
EmollientPrunus Serotina Fruit Extract
MaskingAlmond/Borage/Linseed/Olive Acids/Glycerides
AntioxidantMedicago Sativa Extract
TonicSesamum Indicum Seed
AbrasiveHydrolyzed Eruca Sativa Leaf
AntioxidantSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantHydrolyzed Algae Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Dipeptide-10
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCocoyl Proline
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantEclipta Prostrata Extract
Skin ConditioningPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin ConditioningOpuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientAlaria Esculenta Extract
Skin ProtectingAdenosine Phosphate
Skin ConditioningPEG-10 Phytosterol
EmulsifyingTribehenin
EmollientHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Isoamyl Cocoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate
EmulsifyingMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol Stearate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isoamyl Laurate, Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract, Almond/Borage/Linseed/Olive Acids/Glycerides, Medicago Sativa Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed, Hydrolyzed Eruca Sativa Leaf, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Algae Extract, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide Ng, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cocoyl Proline, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Trehalose, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Adenosine Phosphate, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Tribehenin, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Magnesium Aspartate, Cetearyl Olivate, Isoamyl Cocoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientShea Butter Glycerides
EmulsifyingBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeGlycerin
HumectantBrassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDiheptyl Succinate
EmollientPolyester-37
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDisunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride
Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides
EmollientSclerocarya Birrea Seed Butter
EmollientCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantSilk Amino Acids
HumectantHydrolyzed Silk
HumectantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSericin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLauryl Lactyl Lactate
Skin ConditioningGuar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Benzoate
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Shea Butter Glycerides, Behentrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cetyl Alcohol, Diheptyl Succinate, Polyester-37, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Butter, Cetrimonium Chloride, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Silk Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Silk, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sericin, Panthenol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Lauryl Lactyl Lactate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Benzyl Alcohol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil (aka marula oil) is a skin hydrating ingredient.
Its fatty acid profile is dominated by oleic acid (~69%), palmitic acid (~15%), linoleic acid (~9%), and palmitoleic acid (~4%).
These fatty acids are very similar to those naturally found in the epidermis, making this oil biomimetic; basically, your skin recognizes it.
Clinical testing found this ingredient to be moisturizing and non-irritating, with noteworthy effects on reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Besides fatty acids, marula oil is also rich in oxidative stabilizers like vitamin E, vitamin C precursors, and polyphenols. This gives it excellent shelf stability compared to most facial oils.
This is a great ingredient for dry, dull, or barrier-compromised skin.
Just know it may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fatty acids can as as a food source for the Malassezia yeast.
Learn more about Sclerocarya Birrea Seed OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water