What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCannabis Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-3 Stearate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXylitylglucoside
HumectantAnhydroxylitol
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantLecithin
EmollientXylitol
HumectantPantolactone
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningSphingolipids
EmollientUbiquinone
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientBeta-Sitosterol
Emulsion StabilisingSqualene
EmollientGlucose
HumectantPullulan
Sclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSilica
AbrasivePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialLitsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
MaskingBackhousia Citriodora Leaf Oil
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil
MaskingCitral
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Panthenol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Xylitol, Pantolactone, Allantoin, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Beta-Sitosterol, Squalene, Glucose, Pullulan, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil, Citral, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialOctyldodecanol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsocetyl Stearate
EmollientIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningMyristyl Myristate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientCaryocar Brasiliense Fruit Oil
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantXylitylglucoside
HumectantAnhydroxylitol
HumectantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXylitol
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantMyristic Acid
CleansingArachidic Acid
CleansingLauric Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingBenzoic Acid
MaskingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Tristearate
EmulsifyingGlucose
HumectantCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingPropylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDidecyldimonium Chloride
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isocetyl Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Myristyl Myristate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Caryocar Brasiliense Fruit Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Squalane, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zea Mays Starch, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xylitol, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Myristic Acid, Arachidic Acid, Lauric Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, PEG-40 Stearate, Sorbitan Tristearate, Glucose, Cetearyl Glucoside, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Didecyldimonium Chloride, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinThis ingredient is created from dehydrating xylitol in acidic conditions. Xylitol is a famous sugar and humectant.
Much like its predecessor, anhydroxylitol is a humectant. Humectants attract and hold water to moisturize the skin.
This ingredient is most commonly found in a popular trio called Aquaxyl. Aquaxyl is made up of anhydroxylitol (24 - 34%), xylitylglucoside (35 - 50%), and xylitol (5 - 15%).
According to a manufacturer, Aquaxyl is known for a 3-D hydration concept and an anti-dehydration shield to reinforce the outer layer of skin.
This ingredient is often derived from plants such as wood and sugarcane.
Learn more about AnhydroxylitolThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Learn more about GlucoseGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateGlycine Soja Oil comes from the soybean. Glycine Soja is native to eastern Asia.
Soybean oil is an emollient. It is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids including palmitic, stearic, oleic, and linoleic acids.
As an emollient, the fatty acids in soybean oil helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. It does so by creating a film on top that traps moisture in.
Soybean oil is also rich in vitamin E, a potent antioxidant. Vitamin E is also anti-inflammatory and provides a soothing effect.
Studies show soy may help fade hyperpigmentation from UVB. It does so by disrupting the melanin process from UVB induced skin inflammation.
This ingredient may not be malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne, safe.
Soybeans are rich in proteins and are part of the legume family. Foods made with soybeans include tofu, soymilk, edamame, miso, and soy sauce.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumXylitol is a humectant and prebiotic. It can help with dry skin.
In studies, xylitol has been shown to improve dry skin. It decreased transepidermal water loss, or when water passes through the skin and evaporates. Xylitol also showed to help improve the biomechanical properties of the skin barrier.
The prebiotic property of xylitol may also help reinforce our skin's natural microbiome. Having a healthy microbiome prevents infection by bad bacteria and helps with hydration.
As a humectant, Xylitol helps draw moisture from both the air and from deeper skin layers. This helps keep skin hydrated.
Xylitol is a sugar alcohol and commonly used as a sugar substitute. It is naturally occurring in plants such as strawberries and pumpkin.
Learn more about XylitolXylitylglucoside is created from xylitol and glucose, two humectants.
Not surprisingly, this ingredient is also a humectant. It attracts and holds water in your skin, helping to maintain hydration.
This ingredient is most commonly found in a popular trio called Aquaxyl. Aquaxyl is made up of anhydroxylitol(24 - 34%), xylitylglucoside (35 - 50%), and xylitol (5 - 15%).
According to a manufacturer, Aquaxyl is known for a 3-D hydration concept and an anti-dehydration shield to reinforce the outer layer of skin.
Learn more about Xylitylglucoside