What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningXylitol
Humectant
Glycerin
Humectant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Oleyl Erucate
Emollient
Propanediol
Solvent
Myristyl Myristate
Emollient
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Emollient
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Juice
Skin ConditioningC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientCanola Oil
Emollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Betaine
Humectant
Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
Skin Conditioning
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Abrasive
Inulin
Skin Conditioning
Hydrogenated Oat Kernel Oil
Emollient
Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide AP
Skin Conditioning
Phytosphingosine
Skin Conditioning
Cholesterol
Emollient
Ceramide EOP
Skin Conditioning
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Saccharide Isomerate
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Brassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Sodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin Conditioning
Triethyl Citrate
Masking
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Emulsion Stabilising
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Carrageenan
Emulsion StabilisingBehenic Acid
Cleansing
Sodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Maris Sal
Skin ConditioningDisodium Phosphate
BufferingHydrated Silica
Abrasive
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientSodium Cetearyl Sulfate
Cleansing
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialWater, Xylitol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Oleyl Erucate, Propanediol, Myristyl Myristate, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Juice, C12-16 Alcohols, Canola Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Betaine, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Inulin, Hydrogenated Oat Kernel Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Ceramide EOP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Tocopherol, Saccharide Isomerate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Sclerotium Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Triethyl Citrate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Carrageenan, Behenic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Maris Sal, Disodium Phosphate, Hydrated Silica, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Canola Oil
Emollient
Myristyl Myristate
Emollient
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Emollient
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Diisopropyl Sebacate
EmollientUrea
Buffering
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Benzoate
Masking
Sodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
Buffering
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Water, Glycerin, Canola Oil, Myristyl Myristate, Isopropyl Myristate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Niacinamide, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Urea, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Glyceryl Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCanola Oil is a plant-oil and low-erucic-acid variety of rapeseed. Like other seed oils, it functions as an emollient that softens skin and slows water loss.
Its fatty acid profile is mostly linoleic acid (55-65%) with some oleic, palmitic, and stearic acids. There are also some small amounts of vitamin E and plant sterols.
The sterol content is pretty interesting:
In a controlled human study, a single application of canola oil and especially its sterol-enriched fraction reduced visible irritation, redness, and water loss caused by SLS. Plain canola oil and most other tested oils did little on healthy, un-irritated skin.
It's pretty much just a calm, moisturizing oil that helps with soothing if your skin is already irritated.
Since canola oil is made up of C18 fatty acids, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on chain lengths C11-24.
Fun fact: Canadian growers bred the low-erucic variety in the 1970's, and the name stands for "Canadian oil, Low Acid").
Learn more about Canola OilCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateMyristyl Myristate is a waxy ester made by combining myristyl alcohol and myristic acid (both from plant oils from coconut or palm).
It's a non-greasy emollient that melts right around skin temperature. It gives products a soft and velvet feel and helps improve how a cream spreads.
Safety-wise, it's deemed safe to use in cosmetics by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Dermal animal testing found it to be non-toxic and non-irritating.
This ingredient has a comedogenic reputation; it's important to know comedogenic ratings come from outdated rabbit ear tests. Rabbit ears are way more sensitive than human skin and prone to clogging. How likely a formula will clog pores depends on the overall formulation rather than a few comedogenic ingredients.
Because this ingredient is an ester of Myristic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Myristic acid is a C14 fatty acid that sits in the C11-24 range that feeds the Malassezia yeast.
Learn more about Myristyl MyristatePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
