What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialOctyldodecanol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingDisodium EDTA
Hydrated Silica
AbrasiveMadecassoside
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePoloxamer 338
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningSalicyloyl Phytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingWater, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Propanediol, Alcohol Denat., Octyldodecanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Adenosine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hydrated Silica, Madecassoside, Phenoxyethanol, Poloxamer 338, Polysorbate 60, Retinyl Palmitate, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Silica, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingBetaine
HumectantVegetable Oil
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSilica
AbrasiveDimethicone
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientIsodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientDipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
EmulsifyingTridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantPhenylpropanol
MaskingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Panthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTridecyl Stearate
EmollientCarnosine
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingNeopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientMelatonin
AntioxidantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantDisodium EDTA
PEG-75 Stearate
PEG-8
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Lactate
BufferingCeteth-20
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingTetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantMagnesium Chloride
Helichrysum Italicum Extract
AntiseborrhoeicAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Betaine, Vegetable Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Octyldodecanol, Stearyl Alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Alcohol Denat., Butylene Glycol, Phenylpropanol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Tridecyl Stearate, Carnosine, Parfum, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Melatonin, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-8, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Lactate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Magnesium Chloride, Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, CI 15985, CI 19140
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water