What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentPropylene Glycol
HumectantNylon-12
Octyldodecanol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingDisodium EDTA
Sodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTriethanolamine
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingDisodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingMyristic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Polyethylene
AbrasiveSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentStearic Acid
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone, Isopropyl Isostearate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Propylene Glycol, Nylon-12, Octyldodecanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Adenosine, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Triethanolamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyethylene, Sodium Polyacrylate, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentElaeis Guineensis Oil
EmollientParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Cera Alba
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantMyristyl Myristate
EmollientZea Mays Oil
EmulsifyingPEG-14m
Emulsion StabilisingCera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingParaffin
PerfumingAlgae
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Tristearate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventIsohexadecane
EmollientLaminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingMoringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Skin Conditioning2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialDisodium EDTA
Propylene Glycol
HumectantHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingVitreoscilla Ferment
Skin ConditioningPassiflora Edulis Seed Oil
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMaltitol
HumectantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantOctyldodecanol
EmollientAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingOryza Sativa Bran Oil
EmollientParfum
MaskingWater, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Zea Mays Starch, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Paraffinum Liquidum, PEG-100 Stearate, Cera Alba, Sorbitol, Myristyl Myristate, Zea Mays Oil, PEG-14m, Cera Microcristallina, Paraffin, Algae, Sorbitan Tristearate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Isohexadecane, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Adenosine, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Maltitol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Octyldodecanol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 80, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineCapryloyl Salicylic Acid comes from salicylic acid, the famous acne-fighting BHA.
It usually goes by a more common name of LHA, or lipohydroxy acid.
Like salicylic acid, this ingredient is a chemical exfoliant that can help break down the oil in your pores and reduce inflammation.
Though studies for LHA do show it to be less effective than salicylic acid. To be fair, salicylic acid is the reigning monarch of acne treatments.
However, a study from 2009 found LHA to be comparable to BPO, making it a good alternative for people with sensitive skin. Another study of 14 patients found a significant decrease in comedones after using LHA.
Another pro of LHA? It is less irritating than salicylic acid due to its large molecule size.
Large molecules cannot penetrate skin as well, so they are gentler on the skin. LHA is much less penetrative than salicylic acid.
An in-vitro study (not done on a living organism) found only 6% of LHA penetrated past the statum corneum compared to 58% of salicylic acid. An in-vivo (done on a living organism) analysis revealed ~17% of LHA was still present in the top layer of skin after 4 days, versus ~9% of salicylic acid.
Interestingly, a study from 2008 found LHA comparable to another famous acid, glycolic acid.
This study found about 10% of LHA is as effective as 20-50% of glycolic acid in treating hyperpigmentation and fine-lines.
Hydroxy acids have been found to stimulate skin protein, lipids, and thermal thickening. This may have anti-aging benefits.
Learn more about Capryloyl Salicylic AcidCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinIsohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Learn more about IsohexadecaneOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum