Herbivore Super Nova 5% THD Vitamin C + Caffeine Brightening Eye Cream Versus Perricone MD Vitamin C Ester CCC + Ferulic Brightening Complex 20%
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Caffeine to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Triheptanoin
Skin ConditioningBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Propanediol
Solvent
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Stearyl Stearate
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingBehenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Caffeine
Skin Conditioning
Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Skin Protecting
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Antioxidant
Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract
Emollient
Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialHyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Sclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingC9-12 Alkane
SolventPolyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Sodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningSodium Anisate
AntimicrobialMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Emulsion Stabilising
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningOcimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
TonicTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Skin Conditioning
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBacillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Caprylate
EmollientCitric Acid
Buffering
Water, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Triheptanoin, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Stearyl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caffeine, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Ubiquinone, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Sclerotium Gum, C9-12 Alkane, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Sodium Phytate, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Xanthan Gum, Bacillus Ferment, Glyceryl Caprylate, Citric Acid
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Caprylyl Methicone
Skin Conditioning
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Benzyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid
Skin ConditioningTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Ferulic Acid
Antimicrobial
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Sodium Metabisulfite
Antioxidant
Beta-Glucan
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Polyacrylamide
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Emollient
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Laureth-7
EmulsifyingMaltodextrin
Absorbent
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Benzoic Acid
Masking
Dehydroacetic Acid
Preservative
Parfum
Masking
Citral
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Isopropyl Myristate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Methicone, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Benzyl Alcohol, Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ferulic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Beta-Glucan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polysorbate 20, Laureth-7, Maltodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Learn more about Behenyl AlcoholJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).
Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.
Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.
Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.
A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).
While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.
THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Learn more about Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
