What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingDimethicone
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantRetinal
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPotassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningMethyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cholesterol
EmollientRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPhaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantBHA
AntioxidantAvena Sativa Meal Extract
SoothingLecithin
EmollientAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventPolyacrylamide
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
AntioxidantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentPEG-20 Glyceryl Laurate
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventDiethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Skin ProtectingLinoleic Acid
CleansingParfum
MaskingC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientLaureth-7
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingBHT
AntioxidantDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Panthenol, Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinal, Centella Asiatica Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Pentylene Glycol, Potassium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cholesterol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Polysorbate 80, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, BHA, Avena Sativa Meal Extract, Lecithin, Ascorbic Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polyacrylamide, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, PEG-20 Glyceryl Laurate, Propanediol, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Linoleic Acid, Parfum, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Polysorbate 20, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Sorbitan Oleate, BHT, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Beta-Carotene, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Tetrasodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativePropanediol
SolventPolygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Centella Asiatica Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Allantoin, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Panthenol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Propanediol, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.
Studies show the compounds in centella help with:
The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.
Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract comes from the Chamomile flower.
Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.
Antioxidant components in chamomile make it an effective ingredient to help slow the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin.
Essential oils from chamomile have been found to improve wound healing due to its antimicrobial properties.
Ancient Greeks and Egyptians used Chamomile to treat skin redness and dryness. Chamomile has also been used to help treat stomach issues.
Learn more about Chamomilla Recutita Flower ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract comes from the Japanese Knotweed plant native to Japan, Korea, and China.
This plant contains anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It contains high amounts of resveratrol, a potent antioxidant.
The root of the plant has been used in traditional folk medicine throughout Asia.
Learn more about Polygonum Cuspidatum Root ExtractPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolThis is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.
Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.
These compounds protect your skin two ways:
1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin.
2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.
Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.
Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract comes from the Baikal skullcap or Chinese skullcap plant. This plant is native to Northeast Asia and can be found in China, Mongolia, Korea, and Siberia.
In cosmetics, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This is due to the flavonoid composition of Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract.
In Chinese traditional folk medicine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is used to help treat lung issues and hypertension.
Learn more about Scutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water