Dr. Idriss Left Un-Red CalmBack Cream Versus Chemist Confessions Inc. Mr. Reliable Lightweight Moisturizer
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Colloidal Oatmeal to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Olivate
Cetyl Lactate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
CleansingPhytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningZinc PCA
HumectantColloidal Oatmeal
AbsorbentGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientAcetyl Tetrapeptide-40
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Cetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantIsohexadecane
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetyl Lactate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Sorbitan Olivate, Panthenol, Zinc PCA, Colloidal Oatmeal, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Zinc Gluconate, Sodium Phytate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Isohexadecane, Sodium Hydroxide, Behenyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, CI 19140, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantEthyl Macadamiate
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventEthoxydiglycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingDimethicone
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientVinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Ceramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningSilybum Marianum Extract
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantJojoba Esters
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningAcacia Decurrens Flower Wax
EmollientPolyglycerin-3
HumectantSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialDisodium EDTA
Citric Acid
BufferingChamaecyparis Obtusa Oil
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Leaf Oil
Pinus Sylvestris Oil
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Ethyl Macadamiate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Propanediol, Ethoxydiglycol, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C12-16 Alcohols, Palmitic Acid, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Phospholipids, Silybum Marianum Extract, Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment, Bisabolol, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Polyglycerin-3, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Behenyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Leaf Oil, Pinus Sylvestris Oil
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Learn more about Behenyl AlcoholCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water