What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
2,3-Butanediol
HumectantJojoba Esters
Emollient
Octyldodecyl Myristate
EmollientGlycerin
Humectant
Propanediol
Solvent
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Pentaerythrityl Distearate
Emulsifying
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Brassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingBisabolol
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBakuchiol
Antimicrobial
Caffeine
Skin Conditioning
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Emollient
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Polyglycerin-3
Humectant
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentIsostearic Acid
Cleansing
Citric Acid
Buffering
Glyceryl Caprylate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning
Pentaerythritol
HumectantMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin Conditioning
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Humectant
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Copper Gluconate
Skin Conditioning
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentylene Glycol, 2,3-Butanediol, Jojoba Esters, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Brassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Bisabolol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Xanthan Gum, Bakuchiol, Caffeine, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Isostearic Acid, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Pentaerythritol, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tocopherol, Copper Gluconate
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Olivate
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Bakuchiol
Antimicrobial
Pullulan
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
EmollientChenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCoccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin Conditioning
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Damascena Extract
MaskingTremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Antioxidant
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin Protecting
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Emulsion Stabilising
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentLavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Masking
Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
TonicCurcuma Longa Root Extract
Masking
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSolanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDecyl Glucoside
Cleansing
Lauryl Glucoside
CleansingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
Buffering
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Hydrated Silica
Abrasive
Sodium Nitrate
SoothingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientSodium Phosphate
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sorbitan Olivate, Bakuchiol, Pullulan, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric Acid, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Alcohol, Hydrated Silica, Sodium Nitrate, Disodium Phosphate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.
Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.
As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.
Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.
Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.
Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).
Learn more about Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateSodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
