What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning2,3-Butanediol
HumectantJojoba Esters
EmollientOctyldodecyl Myristate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientPentaerythrityl Distearate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientBrassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingBisabolol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBakuchiol
AntimicrobialCaffeine
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Seed Oil
EmollientTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Sorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyglycerin-3
HumectantVaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentIsostearic Acid
CleansingCitric Acid
BufferingGlyceryl Caprylate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPentaerythritol
HumectantMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningPseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningWater, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentylene Glycol, 2,3-Butanediol, Jojoba Esters, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Brassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Bisabolol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Xanthan Gum, Bakuchiol, Caffeine, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Isostearic Acid, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Pentaerythritol, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tocopherol, Copper Gluconate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientTriheptanoin
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Distearate
EmulsifyingC13-15 Alkane
SolventCaffeine
Skin ConditioningMyristyl Lactate
EmollientAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCaramel
Cosmetic ColorantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCitrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract
RefreshingIsostearic Acid
CleansingSodium Stearate
CleansingPentaerythritol
HumectantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingCalcium Chloride
AstringentWater, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Triheptanoin, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, C13-15 Alkane, Caffeine, Myristyl Lactate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891, Mica, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Behenate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Carbomer, Caramel, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, CI 77491, Tocopherol, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Isostearic Acid, Sodium Stearate, Pentaerythritol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ceteareth-20, Calcium Chloride
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Isostearic acid is a saturated fatty acid. Its structure makes it a great surfactant.
Surfactants help decrease the surface tension between two liquids. This property also makes it an effective emulsifier. Emulsifiers help prevent waters and oils from separating in a product.
Isostearic Acid is created from oleic acid.
This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidPentaerythritol is a white solid commonly used as a base to create other ingredients.
This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.
Pentaerythrityl Distearate isn't fungal acne safe.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is derived from isostearic acid. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
The highest concentration of this ingredient is found in lipsticks.
This ingredient is minimally water soluble and may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl TetraisostearatePentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.
It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water