What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDicetyldimonium Chloride
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientParfum
MaskingPolyquaternium-37
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientMica
Cosmetic ColorantCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingIsopropyl Alcohol
SolventPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingDimethiconol
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium Acetate
BufferingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDiazolidinyl Urea
PreservativeMethylisothiazolinone
PreservativeTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Dicetyldimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Parfum, Polyquaternium-37, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Mica, Cetrimonium Chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Isopropyl Alcohol, Persea Gratissima Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Panthenol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Dimethiconol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Ceteareth-20, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Acetate, Benzyl Benzoate, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylisothiazolinone, Titanium Dioxide, CI 19140, CI 14700, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientStearamidopropyl Dimethicone
Glycerin
HumectantCetyl Esters
EmollientCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientBehentrimonium Methosulfate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPolysilicone-15
UV FilterCitrullus Lanatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningQuaternium-95
UV AbsorberPropanediol
SolventCeteareth-20
CleansingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPolyquaternium-10
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantParfum
MaskingBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeWasabia Japonica Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialSilanetriol Melaninate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBambusa Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientPhyllostachys Bambusoides Juice
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Copper Ferment
Skin ConditioningSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
EmollientSucrose Laurate
EmollientOctocrylene
UV AbsorberButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberBenzophenone-4
UV AbsorberEthyl Linoleate
EmollientArachidyl Propionate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingTetrasodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeSorbic Acid
PreservativeMethylisothiazolinone
PreservativeHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone, Glycerin, Cetyl Esters, Cetrimonium Chloride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polysilicone-15, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Extract, Quaternium-95, Propanediol, Ceteareth-20, Phospholipids, Panthenol, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Polyquaternium-10, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Behentrimonium Chloride, Wasabia Japonica Leaf Extract, Silanetriol Melaninate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Lecithin, Phyllostachys Bambusoides Juice, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Superoxide Dismutase, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Sucrose Laurate, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Benzophenone-4, Ethyl Linoleate, Arachidyl Propionate, Octyldodecanol, Alcohol, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Methylisothiazolinone, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCeteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholThis ingredient is a preservative, antimicrobial, and emulsifier. It is often used in cosmetics for its ability to cleanse, condition, and reduce static.
Cetrimonium chloride is a quaternary ammonium salt, meaning it has a water-soluble structure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilMI is a preservative and known skin irritant. In the past, MI was used for its ability to prevent bacteria, yeast, and fungi growth in low doses.
Nowadays, you'll most likely see MI combined with Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI).
Since then, numerous studies have shown this ingredient to cause contact dermatitis, or skin irritation.
The use of this ingredient varies around the world:
Learn more about MethylisothiazolinonePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water