Youth To The People 15% Vitamin C + Clean Caffeine Energy Serum Versus Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Serum Rapid Brightening Treatment with Ferment² + Vitamin C
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Acetyl Glucosamine to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingSqualane
EmollientTriethyl Citrate
MaskingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCaffeine
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSodium Benzoate
MaskingLauroyl Lysine
Skin ConditioningPassiflora Edulis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingLecithin
EmollientIlex Guayusa Leaf Extract
Skin ProtectingIlex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract
PerfumingPullulan
Mannitol
HumectantHylocereus Undatus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningZingiber Officinale Root Oil
MaskingCalcium Gluconate
HumectantSilica
AbrasivePotassium Sorbate
PreservativePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeErgothioneine
AntioxidantWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Squalane, Triethyl Citrate, Gluconolactone, Citric Acid, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caffeine, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Benzoate, Lauroyl Lysine, Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract, Sclerotium Gum, Lecithin, Ilex Guayusa Leaf Extract, Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract, Pullulan, Mannitol, Hylocereus Undatus Fruit Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Oil, Calcium Gluconate, Silica, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ergothioneine
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPropanediol
SolventAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantAlgae Extract
EmollientSucrose
HumectantAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantLens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMolasses Extract
Skin ConditioningMyrtus Communis Leaf Extract
PerfumingAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveTriticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Skin ConditioningHordeum Vulgare Extract
EmollientCladosiphon Okamuranus Extract
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingHydrolyzed Prunus Domestica
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSqualane
EmollientOryzanol
Skin ConditioningResveratrol
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPEG-75
HumectantOleth-3 Phosphate
SurfactantSorbitol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientOleth-3
EmulsifyingSodium Polyaspartate
HumectantOleth-5
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPropylene Glycol Caprylate
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentFaex Extract
Skin ConditioningCholeth-24
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCeteth-24
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingDisodium EDTA
BHT
AntioxidantPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Algae Extract, Sucrose, Acetyl Glucosamine, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Molasses Extract, Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Prunus Domestica, Caffeine, Sodium Lactate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Squalane, Oryzanol, Resveratrol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG-75, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Sorbitol, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-3, Sodium Polyaspartate, Oleth-5, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol Caprylate, Dextrin, Faex Extract, Choleth-24, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Ceteth-24, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum