What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientCoco-Caprylate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventOryza Sativa Starch
AbsorbentCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientBakuchiol
AntimicrobialRetinal
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningMannitol
HumectantCholesterol
EmollientPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingPEG-75 Stearate
Ceteth-20
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingDecyl Glucoside
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Lactate
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeWater, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Coco-Caprylate, Propanediol, Oryza Sativa Starch, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Bakuchiol, Retinal, Hyaluronic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Mannitol, Cholesterol, Phosphatidylcholine, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, PEG-75 Stearate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Decyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Lactate, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningJojoba Esters
EmollientTriheptanoin
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientC9-12 Alkane
SolventPolyurethane-10
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSucrose Polystearate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantOlea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDecyl Glucoside
CleansingIsodonis Japonicus Leaf/Stalk Extract
MaskingHydrolyzed Wheat Gluten
MoisturisingDecapeptide-22
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-78
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide
Skin ConditioningZinc Palmitoyl Nonapeptide-14
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingMannitol
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Chloride
MaskingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Propanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Pentylene Glycol, Jojoba Esters, Triheptanoin, Dicaprylyl Ether, C9-12 Alkane, Polyurethane-10, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sucrose Polystearate, Glycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopherol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Phosphatidylcholine, Alpha-Arbutin, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Isodonis Japonicus Leaf/Stalk Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten, Decapeptide-22, Oligopeptide-78, Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide, Zinc Palmitoyl Nonapeptide-14, Parfum, Mannitol, Citric Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chloride, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Coumarin, Eugenol, Linalool, Limonene
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidCoco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CaprateDecyl Glucoside is a plant-derived surfactant and emulsion stabilizer. It is created by reacting glucose with the fatty acids from plants.
Like all surfactants, it works by lowering the surface tension between water and oil. This makes it so that dirt, sebum, and makeup can be lifted off your skin and rinsed away. It also produces a dense and creamy foam.
Because it has a neutral charge, it is compatible with a wide range of ingredients and stays stable across a broad pH range/water hardiness conditions.
Patch testing has shown it to have the lowest irritation potential among common cleansing surfactants (like SLS).
Typical use levels range from 5-20% in rinse-off cleansers.
One thing worth knowing: The American Contact Dermatitis Society named the parent family, alkyl glucosides, "Allergen of the Year" in 2017. The prevalence of allergy is pretty low but be sure to patch test if you've reacted to "gentle" or sulfate-free cleansers before.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because the fatty alcohol portion of this ingredient is not within the C11-24 chain length that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Decyl GlucosideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is a modified starch used to help thicken a product.
It is also used in foods.
Mannitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a humectant and moisturizes the skin. In vitro (not tested on a living organism), mannitol displays antioxidant properties.
When found in aqueous solutions, mannitol tends to become acidic. This is because it loses a hydrogen ion. This is why mannitol can often be found with pH adjusting ingredients, such as sodium bicarbonate.
Fun fact: Mannitol can be found in foods as a sweetener. It can be naturally found in mushrooms, algae, fruits, and veggies.
Learn more about MannitolPhosphatidylcholine (PC) is a type of phospholipid, a class of molecule that makes up our own cell membranes.
It has a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tails (mostly linoleic, palmitic, and oleic), and a phosphate-choline head group.
In skincare, PC pulls double duty:
The linoleic acid it carries gets incorporated into skin ceramides and helps reinforce the lipid matrix.
Interestingly, it can help top of the omega-6 fatty acid that's often low in acne-prone and atopic skin. There's a sizeable body of literature that supports its use in dry, barrier-impaired, and breakout-prone skin.
There are two kinds of PC you'll see on ingredient lists.
Use levels range from <1% as a liposomal carrier and between 20-40% in lamellar matrix sytems.
Learn more about PhosphatidylcholinePotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum