What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingIsopentyldiol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantBetaine
HumectantCitrus Junos Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningBis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentCitrus Junos Peel Oil
AstringentSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantArbutin
AntioxidantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantPancratium Maritimum Extract
BleachingGlutathione
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingRetinal
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantArginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Limonene
PerfumingWater, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Isopentyldiol, Dipropylene Glycol, Betaine, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Adenosine, Sodium Polyacrylate, Citrus Junos Peel Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycerin, Arbutin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Gluconolactone, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Maltodextrin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Glutathione, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Ferulic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinal, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Disodium EDTA, Limonene
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingMethylpropanediol
SolventGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantGalactomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantErythritol
HumectantPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingGlucose
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingArginine
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingDiethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
CleansingPantolactone
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingGlutathione
Sodium Hyaluronate
HumectantOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningBrassica Oleracea Italica Extract
AstringentPrunus Serrulata Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningLilium Tigrinum Extract
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Limonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Glycereth-26, Erythritol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Panthenol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Carbomer, Glucose, Xanthan Gum, Arginine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-51, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Pantolactone, Sodium Citrate, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Glutathione, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oryza Sativa Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Gluconolactone, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Lilium Tigrinum Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Limonene, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.
When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:
In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.
This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.
Learn more about GluconolactoneGlutathione is an antioxidant naturally found in our bodies. It is made up of three amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid.
As an antioxidant, it prevents oxidative damage to parts of our cell.
While glutathione is said to help with fading dark spots, the results from research are inconclusive. Further studies are needed. With that said, gluthatione has been shown to protect our skin from UV-B induced damage.
This ingredient is naturally occurring in plants, animals, fungi, and some bacteria.
Learn more about GlutathioneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePolyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier.
It rounds up dirt, oil, and grime, so they can be rinsed off easily as a cleanser. On the emulsifier side, it keeps your formula smooth and well-mixed by playing peacekeeper for ingredients that don't naturally get along (like oil and water).
Because it has a C12 (lauric acid) fatty acid chain, this ingredient can potentially feed the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. The Malassezia yeast prefers esters with C11-C24 fatty acids If you're prone to flare-ups, you might want to patch-test or skip this one.
This ingredient is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-10 LaurateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water