What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Water
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantC12-14 Pareth-12
EmulsifyingArginine
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientArbutin
AntioxidantVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Mume Fruit Extract
HumectantParfum
MaskingPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCarica Papaya Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningChrysanthemum Zawadskii Extract
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingRosa Multiflora Extract
AntioxidantGlutathione
Centella Asiatica Extract
CleansingAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningWater, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, C12-14 Pareth-12, Arginine, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Arbutin, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Parfum, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Chrysanthemum Zawadskii Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Rosa Multiflora Extract, Glutathione, Centella Asiatica Extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingMethylpropanediol
SolventGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantGalactomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantErythritol
HumectantPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingGlucose
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingArginine
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingDiethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
CleansingPantolactone
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingGlutathione
Sodium Hyaluronate
HumectantOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningBrassica Oleracea Italica Extract
AstringentPrunus Serrulata Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningLilium Tigrinum Extract
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Limonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Glycereth-26, Erythritol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Panthenol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Carbomer, Glucose, Xanthan Gum, Arginine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-51, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Pantolactone, Sodium Citrate, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Glutathione, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oryza Sativa Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Gluconolactone, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Lilium Tigrinum Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Limonene, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlutathione is a tiny protein-like molecule (a "tripeptide" build from 3 amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid) that your body already makes on its own.
Inside your body, it acts as one of the skin's main antioxidants that help fight against free radicals.
In skincare, it's best known as a brightening ingredient that slows down tyrosinase, the key enzyme that makes skin pigment. It also nudges the skin toward making a lighter type of pigment instead of a darker one.
This is why you'll see it in products aimed at dark spots and uneven tone.
A small number of real human trials have found a topical glutathione lotion:
The honest caveat is that the current evidence is still thin (few studies, small groups, short timelines). Glutathione also doesn't absorb into skin very easily so results tend to be modest and fade if you stop using it.
One thing worth clearing up:
The scary side effects you may have heard about come from glutathione injected intravenously, which has real safety concerns. Applying it topically is a completely different thing and has a clean track record.
Most human studies used it around 2% (as Glutathione or Glutathione Disulfide) and a 2% oxidized glutathione lotion and a 2% S-acyl glutathione cream are the concentrations with actual clinical data behind them.
There's no established "ideal" percentage yet but 1-2% is the evidence-backed range.
Allergy-wise, there is very low risk for this ingredient; it was well-tolerated across the topical trials. Only one participant had mild temporary redness that cleared up on its own and another study reported no adverse reactions at all.
One trial had ~10% of users drop out for irritation was using a combination cream that also had 10% azelaic acid so the irritation likely wasn't from the glutathione. There's no notable contact-allergy signal for topical glutathione in the literature but patch-testing before first use is still sensible for those with sensitive skin.
Learn more about GlutathioneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneMethylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Learn more about MethylpropanediolNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.
The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.
Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.
Learn more about Pyrus Malus Fruit ExtractWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum