What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPolysilicone-11
Propanediol
SolventCetearyl Olivate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSqualane
EmollientSucrose Polystearate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningLaureth-12
EmulsifyingSodium Benzoate
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentGleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientCalcium Gluconate
HumectantWine
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantWater, Polysilicone-11, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Squalane, Sucrose Polystearate, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Caffeine, Glycerin, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Gluconolactone, Laureth-12, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Maltodextrin, Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Calcium Gluconate, Wine, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantSqualane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientNylon-12
Myristyl Myristate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingTrehalose
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningBidens Pilosa Extract
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningSh-Hexapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Palmitate
EmollientSorbitan Palmitate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantPolysilicone-11
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethylacrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Crosspolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Lactate
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Dimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Cetearyl Olivate, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Diisostearyl Malate, Nylon-12, Myristyl Myristate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Trehalose, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sh-Hexapeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Gluconolactone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate, Tocopherol, Polysilicone-11, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Dimethylacrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, T-Butyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.
When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:
In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.
This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.
Learn more about GluconolactoneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysilicone-11 is a film-forming silicone that creates a non-tacky and matte finish on the skin. It's commonly used to improve texture, absorb excess oil, and help active ingredients spread evenly.
Due to its "rubber-like" structure, it stays on the skin's surface instead of being absorbed. On the skin, it creates a flexible layer that enhances wearability and stability.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water