What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningIsostearyl Isostearate
EmollientButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantPEG-6 Stearate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientResveratrol Dimethyl Ether
AntioxidantQuercetin
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Root Extract
BleachingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingGinkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Masking3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPEG-32 Stearate
EmulsifyingGlycol Stearate
EmollientTriethanolamine
BufferingPolymethyl Methacrylate
Lecithin
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingMica
Cosmetic ColorantAlcohol
AntimicrobialTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantDimethiconol
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTricaprylin
PerfumingDisodium EDTA
Sodium Chloride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantSodium Cholate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Isostearyl Isostearate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol, PEG-6 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclohexasiloxane, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Behenate, Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether, Quercetin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Morus Alba Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG-32 Stearate, Glycol Stearate, Triethanolamine, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Mica, Alcohol, Titanium Dioxide, Dimethiconol, BHT, Polysorbate 20, Tricaprylin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Chloride, Glycerin, Sodium Cholate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, CI 15985
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientPropanediol
SolventAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientLinum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
PerfumingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientBisabolol
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantParfum
MaskingIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
PEG-8
HumectantLecithin
EmollientCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantResveratrol
AntioxidantLimonene
Perfuming3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSaponins
CleansingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSilanetriol
Swertia Chirata Extract
HumectantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingMineral Salts
Skin ConditioningSorbic Acid
PreservativeAnogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract
Skin ProtectingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantFarnesol
PerfumingVegetable Oil
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Propanediol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Bisabolol, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, PEG-8, Lecithin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Resveratrol, Limonene, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Carbomer, Saponins, Benzyl Salicylate, Hyaluronic Acid, Silanetriol, Swertia Chirata Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Mineral Salts, Sorbic Acid, Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Farnesol, Vegetable Oil, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract is more commonly known as the bitter orange. Native to Southeast Asia, this extract is commonly found in both cosmetics and foods.
The bitter orange possesses antibacterial and antioxidant properties.
It can also be mildly exfoliating due to the citric acid, an AHA.
Citrus fruits are rich in flavonoids, alkaloids, and vitamin C.
Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit ExtractCyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.
Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.
As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.
Learn more about CyclohexasiloxaneCyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water