What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Hordeum Distichon Extract
Skin ProtectingCyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Dimethiconol
Emollient
Cetyl Esters
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Glycereth-2 Cocoate
Emulsifying
Dimethicone
Emollient
Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningSteareth-10
Emulsifying
Ethylhexyl Cocoate
Emollient
Santalum Album Extract
CleansingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Phenyl Trimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Lecithin
Emollient
Glycolipids
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
Antioxidant
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Steareth-20
CleansingRosa Damascena Flower Extract
Masking
Triethanolamine
BufferingPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Cleansing
Sodium Polyacrylate
Absorbent
Benzoic Acid
Masking
Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hordeum Distichon Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Cetyl Esters, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycereth-2 Cocoate, Dimethicone, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Steareth-10, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Santalum Album Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Phenyl Trimethicone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Glycolipids, Bisabolol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Caprylyl Glycol, Steareth-20, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Triethanolamine, Pentylene Glycol, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Sodium Polyacrylate, Benzoic Acid
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
UV Absorber
Homosalate 3%
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%
UV Absorber
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4%
UV Absorber
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying
Boron Nitride
Absorbent
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Glycerin
Humectant
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Yeast Extract
Skin ConditioningFaex
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Antioxidant
Betula Alba Bark Extract
Masking
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Humectant
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant
Cetyl Dimethicone
Emollient
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Squalane
Emollient
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Skin Conditioning
Punica Granatum Extract
AstringentPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningSteareth-20
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Lecithin
Emollient
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Steareth-10
Emulsifying
Simmondsia Chinensis Meal Extract
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Magnesium Chloride
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Parfum
Masking
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 3%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4%, Water, C12-15 Alkyl Ethylhexanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Boron Nitride, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Yeast Extract, Faex, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Ubiquinone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Punica Granatum Extract, Plankton Extract, Steareth-20, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Lecithin, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Carbomer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopherol, Steareth-10, Simmondsia Chinensis Meal Extract, Disodium EDTA, Magnesium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front:
Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSteareth-10 is an ether of stearyl alcohol. It is a waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients.
This ingredient may not be acne safe.
Steareth-20 is an emulsifier and solubilizer. It is created from stearyl alcohol with ~20 units of ethylene oxide to give it a strong preference for water.
As an emulsifier, it helps oil-in-water emulsions like lotions, creams, and cleansers stay stable. It also solubilizes small amounts of oil-loving ingredients (like fragrance) into water-based formulas.
You'll likely find this ingredient with steareth-2 (it's oil-loving sister) where the two work together to give products a cushiony feel.
Typical use levels sit at around 1-5% and this ingredient has been found to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel.
Learn more about Steareth-20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
