What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientMethylpropanediol
SolventHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientOctyldodecyl Myristate
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingDimethicone
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantStearic Acid
CleansingHydrolyzed DNA
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingRaffinose
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAmaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingLecithin
EmollientUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-4
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCholesterol
EmollientBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Octyldodecyl Myristate, Polysorbate 60, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Dimethicone, Palmitic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Hydrolyzed DNA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Sorbitan Stearate, Adenosine, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Raffinose, Gluconolactone, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Panthenol, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Lecithin, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Folic Acid, Polyquaternium-51, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Xanthan Gum, Glycosyl Trehalose, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentParfum
MaskingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Metaphosphate
BufferingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningEctoin
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventPPG-5-Laureth-5
EmollientCamellia Japonica Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlycine Max Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingPropylene Glycol Alginate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Parfum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metaphosphate, Adenosine, Ectoin, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Propanediol, PPG-5-Laureth-5, Camellia Japonica Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Retinol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Propylene Glycol Alginate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateThis ingredient is a synthetic ingredient with emollient and skin conditioner used to make skincare products feel more lightweight on the skin. It helps improve slip and spreadability without feeling greasy.
Because it is high molecular weight and lipophilic (oil loving), it remains on the surface of skin.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum